2000 Series 7,100 BTU Hydronic Kickspace Heater in Stainless Steel (Not Electric)

I replaced two five foot baseboard with just one. Don’t know if 4 is overkill. It’s small but blows warm air across the floor. I like mine.

I put mine under a new vanity that had an opening in its center/put it back from the front and yoy will not see it at all/have fun

I am not sure what you mean by separate power source. This product does not get wired to the boiler. It needs a 120 volt power source. Then when the internal aqua stat senses the presence of hot water it will allow current to flow to the blower. As to whether that needs to be hard wire or can it be a plug? That is a issue of code and would depend on the specific electrical codes in your area. For that you would need to speak to a licensed qualified electrician or the code enforcement official in your area.

Great question. In a closed loop heating system you are using the same water over and over again hopefully for years. The reasons we want to use what is referred to as dead water is for two reasons. First without oxygen you can’t have rust. And as heating systems have a lot of ferrous metals, rust would become a problem. Second is air will compress and absorb the circulation pumps energy preventing flow. No flow means no heat. So the first thing you do when you fill a system with water is purge it to get all the air out. As kick space heaters are often piped as mono-flow loops it can often be difficult to get the air out. After you have purged the zones it sometimes becomes necessary to use this bleeder to get the last bit of air out. Sometime does not. As to your second point it is always a best practice to use a hose kit to do the final connection. That way when maintenance is needed you can slide the unit out rather than cutting the cabinet above to get at it. Chris 978 651 3301

Great questions. Kick space heaters were first introduced by Beacon Morris in early 80’s. The early units suffered bearing issues. They would squeal after a while. Beacon Morris and the other people that now build these units have long sense corrected that issue. So to be fair any hydronic kick space heater you buy today should give you 20 years of service. When you do have a failure it will be one of two things 99% of the time; either the blower motor or the clicks on switch. Blower motor life can be increased by keeping the unit clean of debris and clicks on switches, the devise that allows current to move to the motor when it sense heat are cheap and easy to change, if you are thoughtful in your installation. This brings us to your second point. Install any kick space heater with servicing it in mind. If not you usually end up having to cut the bottom out of the cabinet to access it from above. To avoid this I do not hard pipe them in copper. I use flexible supplies and returns for the last few feet of the feed and return. That way I have the ability to unscrew the face place and pull the unit out for cleaning and service. Also keep in mind that kick space heaters have ½” connections and most heating zones are ¾”. You do not bring ¾” to the unit and reduce and then increase when you come out of it. If so you have just reduced the zones capacity from 45000 BTU’s to 12000. The proper way to install a kick space heater on ¾ or larger zone is as a mono flow loop. Meaning a loop off of a loop. However that is a topic for another question. So if you do not know what I mean google it and if you still are confused give me a call. Chris 978 651 3301

In most applications you would not hook this up to a tankless hot water heater. Hot water heaters heat potable water typically to 120 F. This devise is intended to be used in a hydronic heating system where you have a boiler. A water boiler is a devise that heats water to 180 F. As this devise is designed to use water that is hotter I doubt you would be satisfied with the heat output at the lower temp. Further the water would then be to cool to use for bathing.

The difference is the heat output. At 7100 BTU's the unit has the capacity equal to 12' of conventional baseboard where as the 4000 is equal to almost 7' of baseboard. I always use two monoflow or scoops tees because it makes me feel more comfortable. (make sure you orient them correctly) However in plumbing school I was taught you really only need one. That one being the downstream tee. It creates the pressure drop that causes water to be pulled through the sub loop.

There is a wall kit made offered for this product so that i can be mounted vertically. The Home Depot SKU for it is 202809211. If you place that in the search block on the Home Depot site it will come up.

That is a very interesting question. I see no reason why you couldn't. The critical things with hydronic kickspace heaters is piping them correctly and installing them in such a way that you can service them later. This is frequently accomplished by using scoop or monoflo tees on the piping and hose kits for the connections. Hose kits instead of rigid piping allow you to pull the unit out when the motor or aquastat need to be serviced.

Yes, this item uses a 120V AC connection for the fan blower.