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RIDGID Turbo Segment Diamond Cup Wheels are engineered with top-grade industrial diamond for maximum cutting performance and superior grinding life. These cup wheels can be used for a wide range of projects from shaping and polishing of concrete surfaces and floors, to fast aggressive concrete grinding or leveling and coating removal. Heavy-duty steel core offers lasting durability. Cup wheel will fit 7 in. angle grinders with a 5/8-11 threaded arbor. Suitable for both dry or wet cutting conditions.
Product Depth (in.): 1.865 in
Product Depth (in.) | 1.865 in |
|---|
Abrasive Material | Diamond |
|---|---|
Application | Heavy Duty |
Arbor Size (in.) | 5/8" |
Ideally Used With | Angle Grinders |
Kit | No |
Maximum RPM | 8500 RPM |
Number of Segments | 12 |
Package Quantity | 1 |
Power Tool Accessory Type | Sanding/Grinding/Polishing Accessory |
Returnable | 90-Day |
Sanding, Grinding and Polishing Accessory Type | Grinding/Cut-Off Wheel |
Tools Product Type | Power Tool |
Wheel Diameter (in.) | 7" |
Dear DanShepp, Thanks for reaching out to us regarding the 7" cup wheel. We suggest a RIDGID 7 in. 24-Segment Turbo Cup Grinding Wheel: Model #HD-TAW7024P1; Store SKU #139057. Please feel free to call us at our RIDGID customer support number at (877) 224-2969 so that we can help answer any other questions you may have.
Just ran into this issue - I was able to get the wrench in there, but I can't for the life of me get the wheel to loosen out.
I had the same thing happen to me - The grinding wheel got stuck on the grinder. There are flats on the hub at the back of the grinding wheel for an open ended wrench (15/16" or 24mm), but if you have the dust cover like I have in place on the grinder, it is nearly impossible to get to the hub with a wrench, and you have to take the wheel off to remove the dust cover - so you're stuck. Most grinders have a button or pin that you press to hold the shaft locked while you unscrew the wheel, but if you can't get a wrench on the flats of the hub and the wheel is stuck on tight, it's not much help. In addition to the pin/button to lock the grinder shaft, there may be flats for a wrench on the grinder shaft (there are on mine). I finally was able to loosen the dust cover enough to shift it around and get wrenches on the flats of both the hub of the grinding wheel and the grinder shaft. Then I could use enough force to remove the grinding wheel.
Your grinder should have a locking pin to hold shaft for wheel removal. On the back of the wheel you can a 15/16" wrench to back off wheel.
Mine was stuck for a little bit...I TAPPED the shaft and it came loose...my guess is dust had filtered into the threads and bound it just a little. If that had not worked, my plan was to wrap a leather thong around the tool shaft a couple of time, like a mini strap wrench, and spin the wheel off. Good luck.
most grinders have a motor lock button to hold the axle in place that you rotate the axle until it finds the position for locking. importantly turn this in the right direction to unlock. if uncertain, momentarily power up the wheel to see which direction it turns. to REMOVE, you'll want to turn it in that same direction after it is locked. you *should* be able to do that by hand (assuming you've UNPLUGED your motor for safety first!) and if not, find a *long* metal rod, such as a thick Philips screwdriver to give you leverage. You could also wack at the screwdriver/rod with a hammer (similar to removing a drill-chuck via wacking it's key), but I would stay shy of wacking one of the blades on the wheel as it I can't tell if it was monolithic or welded on, i'm assuming the former for added integrity, but don't know for sure. You might also be able to vice up the above screwdriver/rod (used for leverage) and turn the motor instead -- but again, be sure of the proper direction for removal.
Place 2 screwdrivers in the holes and use a hammer as leverage to turn it. it helps to have someone lock the wheel and hold the tool. And please make sure the tool is unpluged.
i would go by the arbor size and threads.
Yes
Yes. If you look in the Home Depot description of the grinder, that wheel is one of the items bought in conjunction with the tool.
Cup wheel will fit 7 in. angle grinders with a 5/8-11 threaded arbor. This wheel is made by Rigid, so if your grinder is a 7 inch angle grinder with a 5/8-11 threaded arbor, I should think it would fit. That seems to be a pretty standard size. I have one of these that I have been using on a grinder from a different manufacturer and it works fine.
Hi MichaelAnthony, These cup wheels can be used for a wide range of projects from shaping and polishing of concrete surfaces and floors, to fast aggressive concrete grinding or leveling and coating removal like paint and drylok. Hope this helps. Greg
It will remove anything on the concrete...you control the depth and amount of grinding by tool application.
I'm sure it would, but it cuts very fast, so be careful not to cut deeper into the concrete block than you really want to.
Yes, i used it to remove paint and 1/4" of concrete. Be careful though as the concrete block is a lighter material tha a garage floor.
This did an awful job for me at removing similar material. Look into a coating removal tool at HD.
If glue is dried, this wheel should work. If glue is still sticky or gooey, use a chemical dissolvent to remove glue.
Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, the RIDGID 7in 12-Segment Turbo Cup Wheel will be good for this application.
I used it to hack at a tree stump. I found you have lots of control with it, so I would say yes, assuming your tried normal Oscillating Multi-Tool's such as DeWalt's or Dremel's Multi-Max. I have both of them but would recommend the Dremel corded version if you don't. They provided amazing power (and control) to putty-knife like blades -- both smooth edges and cutting edges too. I would definitely try those first, but if not, the Grinding Wheel will let you get some frustration out!
I asked the question and subsequently bought the wheel based on Ridgid's recommendation. YMMV but the wheel did not do do a good job at removing the cutback. I was able to clear an are of about 3'X3' in 20 minutes where a "coating removal tool" also sold by HD was able to do it under 3 minutes.
Depends on how much surface you'll be removing, but I think the real limit will be your arms and shoulders!
Depends on what you intend to grind. I tried it on a think layer of cutback and was only able to grind a 3'X3' are in about 20 minutes. Too slow in my opinion when compared to other wheels.
About 140sqft at 1/4" of garage floor concrete. Be prepared for tremendous amount of dust if you have no dust control attachment for your grinder. Tyvek suit & respirator are a must!
Don't know a number of sq ft, but I have done about 800 sq ft of dried mortar mix, on a concrete floor, from a ceramic tile removal job and it shows NO sign of wear
That will depend on the hardness of material you are grinding and how much (thickness) you need to remove. I used mine on a concrete basement floor that was 15' x 13' and it was still grinding just as well at the finish as at the beginning. But I was grinding all the many high spots on an uneven floor, and some of the concrete was very old (house is 99 years old) and beginning to deteriorate and was quick and easy to remove, Other patches were newer and harder and were slower. There is really no simple answer. It just depends on your particular situation. I believe my turbo cup grinding wheel will be good for at least several more basement floors, probably a lot more.
Thank you for your interest in RIDGID. No, you will need a stone cup wheel for that application which is currently not offered in the RIDGID product line. Regards, RIDGID
No experience with granite only concrete floor. Manufacturer should be able to answer your question.
I would call each blade a grit -- so 12-grit! :) The surface grit of each blade is very smooth, I would guess somewhere in the 1000's.
Thank you for your interest in RIDGID. Medium grit, 50/60. Regards, RIDGID
This product has medium grit, 50/60.
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