PB Galvanized Non-Standoff Post Base for 6x6 Nominal Lumber

A:  Hello Lawrence, this is McKenzie with Simpson Strong-Tie. Due to the form darts and fastener position so low on the PB flanges, a standoff would not fit. We have other, better options that are made with 1" standoffs, like the PBS. I hope this helps and good luck with your project.

A:  Hello Daniel, This is Colin from Simpson Strong-Tie. The cast-in-place regular post base for a 6x6 column (PB66Z) and the PBS66Z with the 1" stand off plate are listed on pages 74-75 in the Wood Construction Connectors catalog C-C-2021. On our home page, strongtie.com, enter PB in the Search Strongtie.com field in the upper left. Click on the picture of the Regular Post Base (PB) or click on the picture of the Standoff Post Base (PBS) for the comparable allowable load values, required fasteners and designer footnotes. If you are installing a 6x6 pressure treated post in a location subject to moisture or rainwater setting the post directly on concrete will allow water to easily "wick" up the end of the post. Regardless of either base you choose I suggest you do not cut the bottom of the post, removing the pressure treatment and exposing the raw wood to moisture. If you need more information or have additional questions, please contact the Simpson Strong-Tie Customer Service team at 800-999-5099. We look forward to hearing from you.​​

A:  40 inches long by 20" wide

A:  Answer is really a little complicated. ...Involves three main considerations that evolve around foundation design- 1) what load is it supporting? You can get in the ballpark by assuming 10 PSF deadload for roofs and floors but then you need to add weights from walls and then you need to add liveloads - for roofs 20 psf, and residential floors - 40 psf. (All to be based on the tributary area that your post is supporting. )Add all your loads and then assume a 1500 PSF bearing capacity and divide the total load in pounds by the 1500 PSF and that would give you a conservative footing size (in square feet) for gravity loads. 2) Size for uplift - again to get in the ballpark, could assume 20-25 PSF uplift on roof surfaces and deduct the dead loads. The resulting uplift should be multiplied by 1.5 to provide a safety factor. This would provide the weight the footing should be to resist uplift. You can then size the footing as the cubic feet of concrete would be the total uplift in pounds, divided by 150 PCF (weight of concrete) and will provide you the cubic feet of concrete. But also check the manufacturer's rating of the post base and confirm that it's uplift resistance exceeds the value calculated. So the required concrete would then be the greater of that calculated by #1 and #2. 3) The last thing would be to look up the applicable residential building code and verify you are also meeting the minimums stated there. This action assumes a basic approach and does not account for frame action or lateral loads should the post be part of an enclosed structure. If this is the case, you should probably contact a structural engineer as lateral wind will try to blow over the structure and the footing may need to be larger to hold the structure down - but the post base uplift capacity may govern and if too low - you may need a different base. So...not a straight forward simple answer

A:  Yes, and is where I used it. The manufacturer is really the one that would need to answer as I would anticipate they may have test that would relate to the life when exposed to the salts from pressure treatment. One would need to remember to use galvanized fasteners as well in the installation. If someone wanted to increase the life of the post base, they could place felt between the wood and the base to provide separation, but I would anticipate the base would last a lot longer than the fasteners, so the use of felt would be overkill.