200 ft. Board Polyurethane 2-Component Spray Foam Kit

Under optimal conditions, 600 square feet at 1" thickness, or 300 square feet at 2" thickness, etc.

All materials necessary to apply spray polyurethane foam are supplied except for personal protective equipment. This product is ideal for air sealing and insulating sill plates and rim joists. To determine the quantity of foam kits you require, first determine the square footage you wish to cover. Then multiply this by the number of inches thick you desire. This will tell you how many board feet you require. Divide the estimated board feet by 200 or 600 (depending upon which foam kit you purchase) for the total number of foam kits required to complete the installation.

How many kits to purchase depends upon how many board feet of material you desire to install. The aged r-value is 6.2 per inch. So if you want an r-value of 6.2, then apply 1” of spray foam. For an r-value of 12+ apply a 2” layer of spray foam, and so on. Determine the number of board feet you require by first measuring the square feet you desire to cover and then multiplying by the desired spray foam thickness. Divide the total number of board feet required by either 15, 200 or 600 depending upon which kit size you wish to purchase. This will give you the number of foam kits you need. Always add about 10% for overspray or waste.

I do restoration on historic homes. so I know what you are dealing with. First, is this to go between the finished wall and the brick? I ask, because you need to keep in a moisture drain area behind the bricks. if you look around your foundation there will be weep holes for the condensation that travels thought your walls to escape. Covering these will result in condensation collection at the bottom of the wall, producing rot. As for your question, there is an easier and cheaper solution. I drill a large 1 ¼" hole in the outer wall near the ceiling as close as I can get to the top plate and blow in shredded paper insulation. This will eventually settle, and then you can use this product or the one in the single can to top off the insulation before plugging the holes. I have shiplap and wanted to expose it since I am in love with Red Pine, which is extinct and gives old houses that wonderful "old house smell". Since someone "helped" me clean up and threw away all the plugs I so carefully saved, I had to salvage more red pine and recut the plugs, which worked out fine, since I could use a slightly larger hole saw to make those, for a tighter fit. I used Elmer's glue with a screw in the center to use as a handle to hold them in place. By the time you go all around the house replacing the plugs the glue on the first ones will be dry, and you can back out the screw. Do not forget to drill holes in the cavities under the windows too. This is a very messy job, so clear out the furniture, cover everything with tarps and tape it off, then use the shop vac to clean up the worst of it, and go back with a regular vacuum for the furniture. You will need at least 2 people to run this machine. Grab all your ladders, and if you have moved out all the furniture you can and predrilled your holes, the insulation can be done in one day. I have used this method in several old houses including the one I am in. I have the thermostat set at 60* at night and it is still pretty comfortable, though I like to sleep cool. I rebuilt all the windows, removing all trim, and removed the upper window weights. I foamed this area mostly to seal it, since you can only go about 2" thick, leaving a gap for the lower sash weights to travel in. This has helped tremendously!