Questions and Answers for Carlon 1-Gang 24.5 cu. in. PVC New/Old Work Electrical Box

A:  Yes, and all purpose screw will work.

A:  Hi StorageGuy, I didn't have any problem with the tab causing bulging under the drywall. I believe the main reason for this is that I chose to screw the boxes in as opposed to nailing them in. I found it easier and faster to install them this way. By screwing them in I was able to guarantee a very snug and secure placement ot the boxes. I did this for all my boxes. for switches and outlet placement. You may find that this cost a small amount more but it really is an easier and faster way to mount the boxes. I hope that helps.

A:  Use a 5/8 plywood block as a depth gauge and break off the mounting ears and use the nails to mount to the side of the stud.

A:  Article 314.20 of the electrical code, it is stated that boxes should be mounted flush with the finished surface of the wall, with a maximum setback of no more than 1/4 inch. If you only have a few. rip some 1/8" paneling an shim the box out. I suggest talking to your local building department for you area. You can also check with the manufacturer.

A:  No I think you have to cut that off for deeper application

A:  Just use the existing openings, which have built-in cable clamps.

A:  Hi SushiBreath, well being a real electrician you dont remove the wire insulation until it is in the box then you can use a knife to do a soft cut in the insulation sideways (not length ways) the pull on the insulation and remove the outer cover. But you are wanting to remove the insulation first then stuff into the box. The tabs are not to be removed they hold the wire in the box and help keep critters out of the box. Real electricians dont remove the tabs as they are required by code and if you have a fire etc and a good inspectors sees that the removal of tabs had anything to do with fire they dont pay and selling the house if this comes up you could be in trouble. And if much easier to pull 14/2 in the box if you do it the correct way. I have wired 1000's of houses and I and most other electricians do it the correct way.

A:  They are designed to keep the wires from pulling out of the box and exposing the bare wires. They are very tight and generally I loosen them up a bit with a screwdriver, but don't remove them. It defeats the design.

A:  Hi Sushibreath, plastic boxes do not have to be grounded so with a receptacle or switch you only have to ground the device, that is one reason to use non-metallic boxes. And for record metal boxes are not required except like exterior boxes that are exposed or other places wear required by the NEC but not many places in homes

A:  Hi David, do not know why you would do that as all recepts and switches use #6 screws standard, if you have problems you can use a longer #6 screws, larger screws may work but this is plastic and you may break it with a larger screw, think I would drill the hole bigger first and not very much. Jury rigging never is a good idea but people keep doing it?

A:  Mounting the device into the box should always be done with #6 machine screws, which is what those holes are designed for. Mounting the box to the stud could be done with larger screws, I suppose, but it's not clear why you would need to.

A:  Those are cable clamps (for NM cable), not knockouts. Just push the end of the cable in through them from the outside, and they will hold the jacket tightly.

A:  On new work I always remove the tabs and staple the wire to the stud within 6" of the box strip it to 9" and pull into the box, old work I knock the tab out and just set the box.

A:  Hi Confused, just open the flaps install the wire, not sure how you would strip the wire except by pulling the wire out of the box and you should not do that, install the wire from outside the box into the inside of the box. Maybe have an electrician show you how to do it or go to a class or maybe U-Tube video on how to install a wire in the box