Questions and Answers for Rubbermaid FastTrack Garage 84 in. Hang Rail Track Storage System

A:  You could anchor a 2x4 or plywood with Tapcons and then attach the strip to the wood.

A:  Don't know for certain, but you can always try. You need to start by using a mortar bit to make the hole as clean as possible and then use a concrete anchor and of course get some screws that will fit those anchors. I think it will work if you take your time and be careful when drilling.

A:  I used Tapcon 1/4” anchor screws (available at HD) to attach mine to a cement over block wall. They come with the correct drill bit. A hammer drill is a big help. If your cement is soft, you may be able to use a standard driver. I used shorter (1-3/4) but if it crumbly, Try setting a nice long one (2-3/4) to see if it takes before attempting on a rail system,

A:  mine are anchored to studs, did not have to deal with concrete, but despite me getting them some time ago, if I remember correctly you could drill properly spaced holes in the concrete tap in the sleeves and secure the railing with the screws. I believe the product includes all the hardware.

A:  Hello, I anchored mine to drywall and studs. I hang four bicycles from the rail on attached hooks. The rail and hooks are strong more than adequate for my use. Don't know about anchoring to a cement, brick or block wall. Good luck!!

A:  Either way should be fine- there are plenty of holes along the length of the track so you should be able to secure it sufficiently in the middle and anchor it on the ends. Be sure to double-up on the hardware kits, they don't include enough anchors and screws to secure the track as recommended. I had to go to the hardware store to get more of both.

A:  It depends what you're going to hang from the rack. I have the 84" rack and not all of mine are secured to studs, there are a few that we used drywall anchors on and they are fine. The friend of mine that helped me put it up weighs about 175 pounds and when we were done he was hanging on it just to see and it was fine. Get as many secured to studs as you can, I don't think a few connected by D/W anchors would hurt. Also think one 84" looks better than two 48 together.

A:  No it is not necessary, you don't want to have more than 8 inches unsupported. Having 2 inches on each end is well with that tolerance.

A:  The mounting rail has holes drilled every 1" on the back side of this unit. the black cover piece snaps or slides over the back rail to cover the fasteners. 84" would give you a 7' wide storage rail whereas two 48" rails would give you an 8' rail. if you go the route of the 48" rails, you may not be able to hit the center stud with both rails. Depending on the weight of the items to be stored, this may cause an issue.

A:  It would be ideal to have studs all way out to the ends, and depending on what your planning on hanging the trackes are quite sturdy and can handle a pretty good load from 2 inches back.

A:  Get the larger one, it'll be stronger. Just 2" off the end will still be extremely strong.

A:  Thank you for all the answers. I have since bought the 84"rail and installed it myself without any problems. I used screws that I had left over from my deck and they worked great.

A:  The install instructions allow for excess inches beyond the end.

A:  I used dry the wall anchors, but searched for 2-3 wooden studs within the 84”. Without the ability to anchor into the studs I doubt I would be able to supprt the weight of items of many of the the items I desired to hang (ie, golf bags, etc).

A:  Drywall anchors only will de-rate the load capacity. If that's the only option I had, I would space anchors every 12", alternating top and bottom, doubling up [but offset at least 3" at end]. And then I would limit loading to less than 15 lbs per foot [or a total of 100 lbs for the rail].

A:  Are you saying that you have steel studs versus wooden studs? If so it would be best to fasten the rails to the steel stud with a fine thread self tapping deck screw such as you would use to fasten down a trailer deck. You could also pre drill a hole through the Sheetrock and stud and then insert a alligator anchor and fasten as usual. If you truly have just Sheetrock with no studs bonded to a steel beam, I’m not sure that the Sheetrock will be able to handle the weight of a fully loaded tool rail.

A:  If you will be putting a lot of weight on FastTrac Hang Rail I would recommend reinforcing the rail either by drilling a hole through your metal studs and using some type of toggle bolt to secure or designing some type of reinforced 2 x 4 along the wall and then attaching the rail to that. I think sheetrock would not be strong enough to hold the weight alone. I will say I love these rails and they have held up quite nicely without any problems. (I am no expert, so please do your due diligence before following my advice).

A:  Thanks for your interest in our products! We would not recommend installing the FastTrack Garage 84 in. Hang Rail using only drywall anchors. Some studs are needed for assembly.

A:  Nope.

A:  No, I had to buy them separate

A:  No, hooks are nit included.

A:  no

A:  I bought mine in a kit with an assortment if hooks. It is very easy to expand, because additional rail and hooks can be purchased individually.

A:  I do not know, you should check with an associate at the store

A:  No, I was just at my local big box store and tried out both the Gladiator and the Craftsman system clip hooks and they are too large for the Rubbermaid FastTrack. FWIW the Gladiator and Craftsman are compatible with each other.

A:  Thanks for your interest in our products! The FastTrack Garage 84 in. Hang Rail is designed for use with FastTrack Garage accessories. Unfortunately, we are unable to advise of compatibility with other brands as we do not test for this.

A:  You'd have to measure that "other rail". The key to compatibility will be the configuration of the top groove and the span [distance] across the rail. I think you'll find they won't fit the "G" rails.

A:  I'm not sure, but I kind of doubt they would.

A:  Maybe...if you only plan to have hooks located on the stud

A:  Yes, however if the ends are not on a stud it may look funny. These can be cut with a hacksaw which would remedy that problem. These are two parts..... the base is a heavy metal strip with holes ever quarter inch which make bolting down easy and the top part is plastic and just snaps over piece number one.

A:  Sure.

A:  I installed over drywall into studs

A:  Yes, that was what we did.

A:  Yes ... with hacksaw, fine tooth metal-cutting blade in jig saw, or on a tablesaw with ferrous-cutting carbide blade.

A:  Yes, I cut mine up to fit in Nook’s and crannies in my garage and pool closet. Easy to cut with a hacksaw. I removed the outer cover before cutting.

A:  Yes; use a fine sawzall blade.

A:  Yes. There is a metal portion that will require a hack saw, and a plastic sleeve that fits over the metal rail that could be cut with a knife or scissors

A:  Yes, absolutely! Just need a good power saw. Might even cut them for you in the store.

A:  The track is designed to hold Rubbermaid FastTrack add-on holders and storage solutions. I am attaching a picture of the back of on of the holders, so you can see if this is similar to the Akro Mills bin.

A:  No ... the groove made by the flange on the back of those Akro bins is too narrow to hug the more bulbous edge of the Fasttrack rail.

A:  There are no instruction

A:  Ya. Well if your after hanging have items then it may be necessary

A:  I put 2 screws in every stud and I can hang a heck of a lot of weight from my FastTrack

A:  Let common sense prevail. Yes, they want you to use all that hardware; but, understand, that'll probably give you a minimum safety factor of 3 supporting 1,750 lbs per section, i. e. over 200-lbs per foot! ... are you really going to do that? I installed 42' of this stuff in my garage and used half the hardware [forget the mid-stud anchors]; have about nine accessory hocks on each; estimate no more than 300 lbs on any one section. Haven't had the first issue in five years.

A:  Yes, this is to make sure the track has the advertised hanging capacity. Two screws per stud and then half way between each stud you will add two additional screws into wall anchors. It is also recommended that the track start and end on a stud as well.