Questions and Answers for SureSill 4-9/16 in. x 40 in. White PVC Sloped Sill Pan for Door and Window Installation and Flashing (Complete Pack)

A:  There is no need to paint the sill pan because it gets installed underneath the door sill. 

A:  Yes, not recommended for it is PVC.

A:  I don't see why it couldn't just be sure to use a paint that will bond to the plastic. The only part that shows is maybe the back if it isn't covered by the height of the flooring inside.

A:  I painted mine and looks okay. Only a part of it shows just because I have T1-11 siding.

A:  IF you need to paint, Acrylic paint works

A:  I used Prosoco Fast Flash for the sides and Dupont Residential Sealant for the caulking to concrete. I think there is a youtube video where they use flashing tape for the sides and OSI quadmax for the caulking.

A:  Flashing is not included with kits.

A:  Thank you for your recent inquiry with The Home Depot. The description says the complete pack includes, a channel plate, pair of end caps, PVC cement with applicator and installation instructions, it does not look like the flashing is included. We appreciate your business and look forward to serving you in the future.

A:  It does not contain flashing tape. Be sure and buy a roll and put it under and along the sides to overlap edges. All the different rolls are good.

A:  Probably, but you wouldn't want to remove the stucco as the drip edge of the SureSill has to go down over its outside to ensure that any water it catches is routed to the outside of the stucco. The problem would come about with regard to what sort of trim, if any is around the windows. The drip edge of the Sure Sill needs to be covered by a trim that is spaced a little from the stucco to allow for drainage. Leaving the drip edge uncovered would look bad. Note that the drip edge can be cut down from the factory provided 2" height. Also note that SureSill is available in many widths and one probably wouldn't want one as wide as for a door, for a window. See www.suresill.com.

A:  The Suresill rests directly on the bottom 2x4 so will work with any siding type. As long as the existing stucco is removed flush with the 2x4 framing it will work with existing stucco. You may need to remove a little below the bottom 2x4 for the flange, about 1/2".

A:  You need to coordinate the sill pan with both the window/door bottom and the wall thickness. For a 2x4 wall 99.9% of the time you will use the 4-9/16” pan. But as walls get thicker choose the one that fits the window/door bottom best without having excessive room on the inside.

A:  No the 4 9/16 is for 2x4 framing. you will need the 6 9/16 pan.

A:  For 2x6 framing, you most likely need a 6-9/16 sill pan. Sizing could change depending on exterior sheeting.

A:  This item can be applied directly on concrete. The installation documents show several typical application scenarios and offer recommendations for compatible flashing and sealing products. I used this for my garage directly on the concrete slab. It basically sits on a bed of sealant while the end caps are fastened to the rough opening with either nails or screws.

A:  Good morning, Thank you for your inquiry. Please copy and paste this into your search browser and it will show you details on how to install on a concrete slab https://www.suresill.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/SureSill-Sloped-Sill-Pan-for-Windows-and-Doors-Installation-Flashing-Exterior-Door-Detail.pdf

A:  You don't fasten the pan to the sill, whether it's concrete or wood, except with a good waterproof caulk as per the instructions. The ends of the sill pan have predrilled holes in them and you drive a nail, like a roofing nail, into the stud on either side. If it's a concrete block building, you could use a Tapcon. When you go to install the actual door, the weight of the door sill sits on the sill pan. When you seat the sill in a bed of caulk of some kind, put some weight on the sill until the caulk cures, like a 2 x 4 with a couple of five gallon buckets of paint or water on the 2 x 4. The instructions you get with this are clear, and there is a YouTube video or two you can watch before you buy it.

A:  Yes. Use an adhesive rated for exterior use like a good construction sub-floor adhesive. Flashing is very thin so no added height.

A:  In my opinion yes. Set the flashing in a few beads of a good butyl based caulk. Door frame should hold it all in place. There are also nail slots on the top vertical ends if memory serves me right to hold in place.