How to Plant a Tree

Pick the right tree for your yard. Use these questions to guide your choice:

• Do you want a flowering tree, a shade tree or one that produces fruit? Pear trees and cherry trees blossom in spring and produce fruit in summer.
• Do you want to attract birds, butterflies or other wildlife? Choose trees like dogwoods or crabapples.
• Do you want a tree that holds its leaves or one that changes color? Evergreens stay green year-round, while hardwoods offer vibrant fall colors.
• Are you looking for a shade tree or privacy? Fast-growing hybrid poplars or willows provide privacy quickly.
• Do you need a low growing ornamental tree for your front entrance? Japanese maples or redbuds bring charm without overwhelming small spaces.

Tip: Choose native species whenever possible. They adapt to the local climate, need less maintenance and support local wildlife.

Cool temperatures help trees build strong root systems for the growing season. A good rule of thumb is to plant trees in autumn before the ground freezes.

• Adjust planting times based on your region. In warmer climates, plant in late autumn or early winter to reduce stress on the tree. In colder regions, plant in early spring to give the tree time to grow roots before its first winter.
• Some tree species thrive during specific planting windows. For example, deciduous trees often do well in autumn while evergreens benefit from early spring planting. Check the recommendations for your specific tree type.
• Avoid planting during extreme weather conditions that stress trees such as heatwaves, droughts or heavy rains.

Tip: You can plant a container-grown tree any time during the growing season. Be sure to water them regularly so their roots grow strong and healthy.

Here’s how to choose the right spot for your new tree:

• Test your soil type. Some trees thrive in sandy soil while others prefer clay or loamy soil. Amend the soil if necessary.
• Observe how the sun moves over your planting site. Fruit trees, for example, require at least six hours of sun each day.
• Avoid planting trees too close to your house or foundation. Branches can damage the roof and tree roots can grow under your home and cause damage. Check the tree tag to see how tall the tree will grow and how much room the canopy needs. Avoid planting too close to your foundation.
• Consider wind patterns. Plant windbreak trees on the windy side of your property to protect your home and other plants.

Tip: Plant trees at least 10 feet away from utility lines. Call 811 at least a week before you dig to know where these lines are buried.

Once you have selected a tree and site, it’s time to get your tools and dig the hole.

• Measure the tree’s root ball before you start digging.
• Loosen the dirt around the roots to help the root system thrive as it grows.
• Using gardening gloves to protect your hands, dig the hole at least three times the diameter of the root ball. Avoid digging deeper than the root ball.
• If the dirt feels too compact, use the sharp end of your shovel to cut into the sides of the hole and loosen the surrounding soil.
• Place the excavated soil on a tarp or in a wheelbarrow for later use.

Test the drainage of the hole you dug. Fill it with water and see how long it takes to drain. If it takes more than 24 hours, change your planting spot or improve drainage. For example, if your soil is sandy and fast draining, mix peat into the soil to absorb water.

Next, check if the potting hole’s base and sides are smooth. This is called glazing and can stop tree roots from absorbing water and growing properly. Here’s how to remedy this:

• Use a garden fork to scratch a few inches deep into the soil and break up any glazing.
• Dig a slightly deeper ring around the outer edges of the hole. Leave a higher ridge of compacted soil in the center.
• Before planting, amend the soil with compost or organic matter about 1 to 2 inches deep if needed.

The right way to prepare a tree for planting depends on how your new tree is packaged. Most trees are sold as bare-root trees wrapped in burlap or planted in pots or containers.

For bare-root trees wrapped in burlap:

• Gently loosen the root ball with a shovel or your fingers. Be careful not to damage the roots.
• Completely remove and discard all burlap, string, wire or twine from around the root ball.

For trees grown in pots:

• Tap firmly around the edges of the pot to loosen the soil.
• Tip the container on its side and slide out the tree. Or if it’s in a plastic container, carefully cut away the container with a sharp knife.

• Place the tree in the hole so the top of the root ball sits level with the surrounding ground.
• Use your hands or a shovel to lift the tree by the root ball and lower it into the hole. Don’t lift the tree by its trunk.
• Place the tree on top of the raised center section and let the roots spread out.
• Lay the handle of your shovel across the hole to check that the crown of the root ball is level with the surrounding ground.
• If the root ball is below the surrounding ground, remove the tree and add more soil.
• If it’s too high, remove more soil from the hole.
• Have a partner hold the tree center while you backfill the hole with the soil you removed.
• Tamp dirt down gently to remove air pockets.
• If your tree is young or grows in a windy area, use tree stakes for support. Loosely tie them with soft ties to avoid damaging the bark. Remove the stakes after the first growing season to let the tree grow naturally.

Water the tree thoroughly after planting to help the soil settle. Continue watering at least once a week during its first growing season. Deep watering is key. Soak the soil to a depth of 12 to 14 inches to help the roots grow deep and strong.

• Use a garden hose or a soaker hose to make watering easier and more consistent.
• Focus your watering on the tree’s drip line, the area directly beneath the outer edge of its canopy.
• Avoid watering near the trunk to prevent root rot.
• As the tree grows, expand the watering area to match the drip line.

Regular care will help your new tree grow strong and healthy for years to come. Below are a few tips:

Prune broken, unhealthy or diseased limbs once you’ve planted your tree. Always wait at least a year to do any additional pruning.

• Water in the morning when temperatures are cool. This will reduce evaporation and discourage mildew.
• Keep mulch around the tree to hold soil moisture. Avoid piling mulch against the trunk.
• Don’t fertilize a newly planted tree. Wait two or three years or until your tree is established.
• Except for fruit trees, many mature trees don't need fertilizing at all. When you do use fertilizer, it's best to fertilize trees in late April or early May or late in the fall. Follow the directions on your product for how much to apply and how often.
• During dry winters, water your tree if there has been no rain for six weeks.
• Watch for signs of drought stress. Look for wilted or yellowing leaves, early fall coloring or scorched and undersized leaves. Evergreens may lose their healthy green color and drop needles. If you notice these symptoms, increase deep watering to help the tree recover.
• Well-established trees can go longer between waterings but still benefit from occasional deep soakings during dry spells.

Want to add a new shrub or shrubs along with your tree?

• Think about the best distance from where you want to put the shrub to any existing plants.
• Check the plant tag to find out whether your shrub needs full sun, partial shade or full shade.
• Dig a hole that’s two to three times the width of the root ball to allow roots to spread.
• Gently loosen the shrub’s roots with your fingers or a garden trowel.
• Place the shrub in the hole so the trunk is even with the surrounding ground. Apply a plant starter solution to your shrub immediately after planting.
• Create a moat of dirt around the drip line of the plant to allow water to collect around the plant.
• Give the shrub a long, generous watering at planting time. You might want to use a drip irrigation kit to apply water slowly.
• Apply a 2-inch layer of mulch to hold moisture and control weeds. Keep the mulch away from the base of the shrub to prevent rot.
• Use a hand pruner to lightly trim long, unbranched stems. Cut stems right above the bud.