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The SaniVite is a drain pump that is ideally suitable for use in a basement apartment or anywhere in the house where additional fixtures are most wanted. It will pump waste water away from a variety of sources such as: a kitchen sink, laundry sink, washing machine (indirect connection), dishwasher, bar sink, etc. The SaniVite model was designed to sustain the toughest applications meant for gray water pumps. Its pumping capabilities and unique design are the reason why these range of pumps are preferred for heavy duty applications. The inside of the SaniVite is comprised of a pressure chamber, which starts and stops the unit, and the motor, which drives the pump. When the water enters the SaniVite, it activates a micro switch in the pressure chamber, which in turn starts the motor. The motor is sealed for life in an oil filled enclosure. A spindle/shaft drives the impeller and therefore the moving parts are kept to an absolute minimum. Water enters the chamber and is pumped away into the sanitary sewer. The unit pumps the effluent upward to 16 ft. and/or 150 ft. horizontally (with gravity fall). Once the water is discharged and the water level in the container goes down, the micro switch deactivates the unit until water enters the unit again. A normal operating cycle for the SaniVite can be as short as 2 to 10 seconds depending upon the discharge pipe run configuration; power consumption is therefore minimal.
Dimensions: H 11 in, W 15 in, D 8 in
Product Depth (in.) | 8 in |
|---|---|
Product Height (in.) | 11 in |
Product Width (in.) | 15 in |
Amperage (A) | 4.5 A |
|---|---|
Cord Length (ft.) | 3 ft |
Discharge Flow @ 0 ft. (gallons/hour) | 1800 |
Discharge Flow @ 0 ft. (gallons/min) | 30 |
Discharge Flow @ 10 ft. (gallons/hour) | 1380 |
Discharge Flow @ 10 ft. (gallons/min) | 23 |
Features | No Additional Features |
Head Pressure (ft.) | 16 |
Housing Material | Thermoplastic |
Impeller Material | Other |
Included | No Additional Items Included |
Inlet Connection | Clamp end |
Maximum Discharge Flow (gallons/hour) | 1740 |
Maximum Horsepower (hp) | 2/5 |
Maximum Pressure (PSI) | 0 PSI |
Maximum Working Temperature (F) | 140 |
Minimum working temperature (F) | 40 |
Outlet Connection | Clamp end |
Power Type | Electric |
Product Weight (lb.) | 18 lb |
Pump Switch Type | Diaphragm |
Returnable | 7-Day |
Vertical Lift (ft.) | 16 |
Voltage | 115v |
Certifications and Listings | CSA Listed, UL Classified |
|---|---|
Manufacturer Warranty | 2 years prorated |
This pump is categorized as a Gray Water pump. It is designed to handle water that may appear gray in color due to the presence of soap. It is not a sewage, effluent or macerating pump so cannot handle solids or semi solids. It will not handle the waste from a toilet. Nor will it handle food waste of any kind.
If you scroll down the Home Depot product listing page you will come to a section entitled Product Details. If you expand that section, you will find PDFs of the product documents. The specification sheet indicates that this pump has a maximum amperage draw of 4.5 amps. As to what type and size of breaker should be used. That would be dependent on what else is on the circuit, the length of the circuit and the electrical code in your state. So, I can’t give you a definitive answer. For that you would need to speak to a local qualified licensed electrician or the electrical inspector. I do think that using a GFI breaker is a smart idea even if it is not required by your code.
No, you cannot use this pump in conjunction with a garbage disposal. If you read the description, you will see it described as a “Gray Water Pump”. In the plumbing world that term has a very specific meaning. It literally means it can be used with water that contains soap and loops gray. Gray water is the limit. It will not move water containing solids semi solids or trash. The next step up would be an effluent pump which can handle some small semi solids, then sewage which will handle bathroom waste. This is followed by a grinder pump that will chew up many solids and finally a trash pump designed to pass large solids. As a plumber, whenever pumping kitchen sink waster the minimum I will use is an effluent pump because I don’t trust others not to put waste down the kitchen sink and to use the sink drain basket strainer. Depending on what else might be serviced by the pump, I may also consider a sewage or grinder for the job.
Washing machines have an internal pump. You do not pump directly into a pump. And because this pump would be connected to your sewer line there would need to be a p-trap between it and anything else connected to it, in your case the washing machine. The p-trap and the vent line prevent potentially lethal odorless sewer gas from entering the home. As the plumbing code varies by state you would want to consult with a local qualified licensed plumber to get a definitive piping diagram. But I can tell you that it would typically involve running a pipe up into the air, from the pump. At the end of that pipe there would be a p-trap and then another short piece of pipe. The pump in the washing machine would pump the water up and out of the washing machine and into this gravity drain that would connect to the second pump. If you google “piping a washing machine discharge” you will find quite a few diagrams that may help you better visualize what I am describing.
If from a desktop computer, you scroll down the Home Depot product listing page you will come to a section entitled Product Details. If you expand that section, you will find PDFs of the product documents including the specification sheet. There is no universally standard destination for plumbing fixtures of commercial and residential. And plumbing code varies tremendously throughout the country. To know if this product is approved and appropriate for your application you would want to consult with a local qualified licensed plumber or the plumbing inspector in your city or town.
Saniflo recommends against the use of flexible PVC for the following reasons, listed in no particular order. Incidents have been reported where flexible PVC has kinked. Where it has sagged resulting in clogs. Where internal ribs in the pipe have created resistance that decreased flow rate and lifting capacity. Where the use of flexible PVC was not allowed by code.
This pump cannot be used to support a sink, dishwasher and washing machine simultaneously. You would need to use multiple pumps or one larger sewage ejection system. Depending on how it’s plumbed and the plumbing code in your area you may be able to get away with two pumps rather than three, but you definitely not do it with one. To get a definitive answer I would ask a locally qualified licensed plumber or the plumbing inspector in your town. They will not be the proper prodigal for pump sizing and piping in your area. Pump sizing and piping around washing machines and dishwashers is critical. It must be done in a way that prevents the possibility of sewage backing up into these appliances.
If you scroll down the Home Depot product listing page you will come to a section entitled Product Details. If you expand that section, there are PDFs of the product documents. The specification sheet indicates that this unit draws a maximum of 4.5 amps and runs on 120 Volts 60 Hz power. As to the sizing of the circuit, that would depend on what else is on the circuit, the length of the circuit, the wire gauge and the electrical code in your area. Therefore, I cannot give you a definitive answer. For that you would need to speak to a local qualified licensed electrician or the electrical inspector in your town.
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