|Product Depth (in.)||0.688 in||Product Length (in.)||168 in|
|Product Width (in.)||2.25 in|
|Application||Door & Window||Color Family||White|
|Color/Finish||White||Decorative Moulding Type||Standard Profile|
|Durability||Not Applicable||Finish Type||Primed|
|Material||Wood||Moulding Cut||By Linear Foot|
|Moulding Features||No Additional Features||Moulding Type||Casing|
|Moulding Use||Door & Window||Number of Pieces Included||1|
|Pack Size||1-Pack||Pack Size||1|
|Pattern Number||356||Sell Pack Options||Single Item|
A: I'm assuming your corners have a radius. Not all molding profiles offer a corner casting. I re-did the flooring in a Park Model a few years ago, and used them. I was disappointed in the actual match up, and used a file to blend in the contours. About 6 months ago I helped my son-in-law put tall baseboards in their house. They also had the radius in the corners. You can make a very neat joint by making an insert piece on the miter saw. To make them, make a fixture with a plywood base and have two fences, 90 degrees to each other. The one fence rests against the miter saw fence. The plywood must be long enough so you can clamp it down when you find the proper position. Before cutting any of the inserts, make a couple test baseboards with the 22.5 degree angle. Usually 5" to 6" is sufficient. To make the insert, it's better to make several boards about 6" long with the 22.5 degree cut on them. Now you just have to trim the other side. To start, you have to experiment with the width required. Clamp the fixture down in a position that appears close, and cut a sample. Take it to the wall, and see how it fits, position it between the two test baseboards you made earlier. Adjust the fixture as necessary. One you have the right setting, make a bunch of them. Keep your fingers away from the saw blade. It's best if you have someone use a hold down stick to secure the small cut insert piece as it's being cut. It's also better if you don't cut all the way through the plywood. When installing them, it's best to use glue to hold them. I like Titebond's "Thick & Quick" glue. It sets fast and strong with end grain joints.
A: Yes you can, and it will be delivered if you like. I had it delivered to my client and when it arrived I installed... This is a great product.. And can be used for other projects.
A: you can order it ,it comes in 14ft length's
A: The primer on this product chips and flakes in large chunks when cut or nailed, then you will have to sand and re-prime. You will be better off to get the raw wood molding and prime it before you install. The raw wood is cheaper and you will ensure the quality of the primer before you install the molding in a place that makes it very difficult to reach to sand and re-prime.
A: John, That's wonderful! Head over to your nearest The Home Depot and they will be more than happy to help you.
A: Actually there is no question, but I think you realize it's important to secure all the molding the same manufacturer. Years ago, I mixed some molding, and although they look close, they often are not the same. Not an issue, unless you miter the corners of two different sources, and you can then easily see that they don't match.