Questions and Answers for VPC 1/2 in. FPT Black Iron FPT Floor Flange

A:  It states to use 5/8 in Flat head screws. I needed something sturdier, and went with 1/4 in. Carriage bolts. 5/8 in. Carriage bolts were too thick for the holes.

A:  Hi MJ, You can use up to a 1/4 inch screw to mount the flange. The diameter of the holes is approximately 1/4 inch.

A:  Yes. I have it and there is no marking saying otherwise anywhere on the packaging or item. Fun fact: if it is sold in America and doesn't say the country of origin on it, it's from America.

A:  This particular item is manufactured in Indonesia.

A:  No the ones I bought were made in China!

A:  the holes are 4 on 2.5" dia. circle.

A:  Sorry Jim. I cannot answer that. In order to calculate the withdrawl force of your screws you will need to know the diameter fo the screw, (#8), the length of the screw and the description and specific gravity of the material that you driving the screws into. There is a lot of informaiton on the internet regarding how to find your answer. Take a look at https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wood-screws-allowable-withdrawal-load-d_1815.html

A:  Using stainless screws on carbon steel is not recommended, especially if exposed to wet environments. As far as pull out strength, depending upon how you are loading the flange (and thus the screws) has lots to do with it but I suspect that your limiting factor is based on what material you are screwing into.

A:  The depth of the threaded section in the flange is about 1/2”, and with the relatively coarse threads, I have concern about the success and personally would opt for a different solution. If it wasn’t imperative to tie the flange to the internal pipe, you might be able to go with a flange for a larger pipe diameter, that would slip over the 1/2” pipe, and it could provide the allusion it was tied in, and perhaps the clean look you are after? Best of luck either way.

A:  There are not enough threads in the flange to screw two pipe nipple, one from either side before they bottom against each other.

A:  No. Not much thread on these

A:  There is not a lot of threads to put two nipples into one flange

A:  No, sorry that is not possible with these. This flange has 1/2" pipe thread. Pipe thread is tapered. The beginning of the thread has a larger ID than the bottom of the thread. You can only thread pipe in from the front side. You cannot thread pipe in from the back side. You might want to take a look at Pipe Bulkhead Coupler fittings.

A:  Be easier to drill a hole in the wall use longer pipe to go through the wall. Cut pipe to allow for half inch of threads from where it exits the wall and however much more is needed to mount the airhose connection to the pipe. Then cut threads on the pipe and screw one of these on back against the wall lag bolt or screw the flange to the wall.

A:  I don’t believe there would be enough threads to do so and maintain your psi ratings. I wouldn’t personally trust this.

A:  There are 14 threads per inch for 3/4" pipe.

A:  10 per American National Standard Pipe standards

A:  I used it for shelving, it def has a coating on it so wiping it down prior would be helpful. We didn’t and our hands did get a little gross from that and the piping we used. But it looked awesome!!!

A:  No, this piece should be ready to go as is. Be warned, some of the pipes however may need the grease cleaned off. Just depends on what size pipes you need to buy.

A:  I have used many and have had no problems and have not cleaned and sealed them. However, it will depend on the humidity!

A:  Yes, it will have oil residue and if exposed to moisture it will rust. Mike

A:  I can only speak to what I did, which was to clean it with acetone, then spray paint it with Rust-Oleum. Without a protective coating the flange, as delivered, will rust if it gets wet.

A:  Depends what you are using it for. You can use Tapcon screws can work but you are using it for something heavy then I would suggest any masonry style anchor.

A:  I like using the Simpson Strong-tie wedge anchors if you can find them small enough to fit in the holes of the flange. Otherwise the blue Tapcon screws seem to work fairly well.

A:  I would look at the Tapcon and or Blue Tap concrete screws. You can use the 1/4" screws. You will have to decide on the appropriate length of the screws based on the anticipated load and the thickness of your concrete. The Blue Tap concrete screws are available with a countersink head.

A:  Yes, it can

A:  I'm pretty sure the flange thread is not tapered so it doesn't matter which side you screw the tapered pipe into.

A:  I never tried it, but I do not think so. Pipe threads are tapered, ie they start out small and then get to the full OD of the pipe. This is why they seal.

A:  No, that will not work. Pipe threads are tapered threads. That means that the further you thread into a female thread, the smaller the I.D. On the male thread, the further you go up the threads, the greater the O.D. This is how the seal is made. When you try to thread the male pipe into the back side of the flange, the female thread is already at its smallest diameter. You might get one of the threads to catch, but you will not be able to secure the male pipe into the back of the flange.

A:  Since they are cast my experience has been that cast is tough to weld It's not impossible but malleable iron would be a better choice of material to weld

A:  I wouldn't suggest welding cast metal. You can braze it though.

A:  you can with a LoHi electrode but you have to get your settings right. This is cast iron thats been heated up to soften.

A:  You can if you know how to weld. I don't know how to weld so no I can't.