Questions and Answers for ClosetMaid ShelfTrack 80 in. L White Standard Support Bracket Hang Track

A:  I would recommend using a bolt in any remaining hole because of the weight of clothes and hangers and anything you may put on on the shelving. I bought these after my builder-grade metal wire shelving/closet hanger system collapsed after a number of years (in fact 2 closets collapsed). In my opinion it is easier to do it right the first time than have to dismantle and do it again. The collapsed shelves left big gouges in the walls that were not fun to patch and work around. It may seem like overkill but Closet Maid put the holes in the track for a reason.

A:  Hello, Toggle bolts are used for drywall installation. Per the instructions for stud installation Secure to the wall with #12 x 2 in. pan head screws at stud locations. Thank you for your inquiry.

A:  I would just install one bolt on the far right hole but otherwise two in the stud is strong enough

A:  So far for me, it's been enough to install it with screws alone.

A:  Depends on how you attach the rail to the wall if you’re able to lag bolt the rail on to the studs you can hold 10 Times More way you can use large toggles and hold The wayThe weight capacity depends on the mountain method

A:  The weight capacity is dependent on what it’s mounted to and the type of fasteners. One of my installs is maybe 1000lbs of steel, but it’s fastened to concrete wall using tapcons. Other places are drywall toggles with maybe 100lbs or less.

A:  I am not sure of the rated max weight but if you use this rail it makes it easy to hang the shelf rails. Make sure you attach the shelf rails to the wall studs. I have at least 6 to 8 gallons of water on my shelfs with out any problems

A:  No, I don’t believe so. I think the ClosetMaid system is designed to work in conjunction with their products.

A:  They are different. Doubt if they can work together.

A:  Hello, Our system is not meant to be compatible with other systems. Thank you for your inquiry.

A:  Hello, The hole from the edge is 1” in, every other hole is 8” apart. Thank you for you inquiry.

A:  First hole is 1” in, every other hole is 8” apart

A:  This is very rigid and will easily support shelves with screws that far apart

A:  It depends on how much weight you want it to hold. If you use it with the vertical pieces and screw in the vertical piece, it should hold plenty of weight. You could also install them with drywall anchors instead of into the studs but it won’t hold as much weight. Also, there are predrilled holes that are the standard stud distance apart. There are no holes 30” apart.

A:  I would and have always added an extra toggle bolt or 2. Just use the extra holes that do not line up with studs or drill a new hole. Extra support will never hurt!

A:  That's quite a spacing! But even if there is no stud in-between those two you can do this if you use a horizontal bar for your project. That can be mounted using drywall fasteners through several holes and gives a lot of strength. Note that the horizontal bar has to be installed near the top of where your verticals are going to be placed, as they are designed to be installed that way (there is a square notch where they slip onto the horizontal bar and really click in well.) If you do not want to use a horizontal bar it would decrease the weight you could place on any shelving you install, and with the bar you can use more verticals and simply fasten the lower holes using drywall screws, knowing that the tops are very secure.

A:  Hello, Track can be installed at any height. However, for maximum adjustability and strongest installation, install track flush to ceiling and screw into wood header behind wallboard. Stud installation is recommended whenever possible for the strongest installation. Thank you for your inquiry.

A:  Hello. The hole spacing in the 80" hang track are 4" away from the edges; total of 9 holes spaced 8" apart. Thank you for your inquiry.

A:  I believe the holes are on 4 inch spacing.

A:  The first hole is 4 inches from the edge (specifically talking about the 80" track). The last hole is 4 inches from the edge. All holes are 16" apart.

A:  ...sorry, 8" not 16", my bad

A:  4" from edge

A:  The first hole is 4" from each end and then 8" apart.

A:  I can't tell you personally the weight amount. but I did like you and ran the standards about every 24" but I also put an additional screw into the wall studs to help support. I believe on a 6' standard there is like 5 holes that you can put a screw in and I put 2 in each and I can climb up my closet organizer it is so strong.

A:  I asked this question, now I'm answering it, from what I learned. The top rail supports all the weight of the entire shelf arrangement. Grant it, I have it screwed into the top plate (2x4) along the ceiling (2 inch screws). That gives me maximum flexibility to adjust standards to meet my needs, move shelves, add shelves, etc. The wire shelves themselves are the weakest part of the load bearing capability (makes sense, simple moderate sized wires). I don't have any screws anywhere but the top rail, everything else is hanging off it. If I didn't use the top rail (which is an option), I'd have to ensure the standards are screwed into the wall studs (but then I lose all the flexibility of the hang rail arrangement). In the picture attached there's about 200 pounds on the shelves. Some of the bags are about 40 pounds and I have 6 one-gallon containers on there also. Grant it, I put the heavier items over the shelf brackets and not in the middle of a wire shelf (between standards), the shelf itself would never hold the weight (once again makes sense). see pic attached...

A:  Not sure of the exact pounds but my shelves are holding books and there are a lot of books. My standards are spaced at 16 inches which is my wall stud spacing.

A:  The Hang Track is just a handy tool that does two things. It (when level) provides automatic leveling of the standards (the vertical track that the shelf supports snap into) and it also makes it very easy to slide the standards back and forth so you can find the studs. It really does not do much as far as weight bearing goes. All the weight is carried by the standards (firmly attached to studs with 2.5" screws) and shelf supports. As an experiment I placed several concrete blocks on a 8' shelf to see if it would hold. Did not even phase it. So attach the Hang Track, hang a standard from it, plumb the standard using a level and screw it into the stud. Easy peasy.

A:  Hello. Approx 25 pounds. Thank you.

A:  Hello. The max weight is not to exceed 75 pounds per linear foot. Thank you.

A:  Are your screws going into studs? This will play a key factor on the weight they will support. I would suggest using drywall fasteners where you will not be able to hit a stud. Are far as the shelving system goes the load weight should be in the itiem description.

A:  The product(s) are well made and a "chain is as strong as it's weakest link" applies. This hang track (40 in) "could" hold ~ 900 lbs mounted into concrete, Slightly less screwed (#12 x 2") into wall studs and much less into Drywall using toggle bolts. Wire shelf is rated at 100 lbs per linear. Very good system.

A:  Instructions state a minimum of 8" for drywall and concrete and 16" for studs. Here's the install instructions https://closetmaid.com/wcsstore/MasterCatalog/InstallationPDFs/2826700_inst.pdf If possible you'll want to hang it from the horizontal stud near the ceiling. Unless you can confirm all of your studs are centered on all the holes you'll use. A tip if you do hang it from the horizontal stud near the ceiling. When they frame rooms during construction it likely won't be flush with your ceiling. Mine has a half inch gap between that board and the ceiling drywall. Don't assume you can put the shelf track flush with the ceiling and your holes will be at the center of the wood. Use a small drill bit to find exactly where the bottom of that wood is so you know where the center is, which of course is 3/4" above the bottom. Here's a picture of mine to show how much below the ceiling I had to go to be at the center of the wood. Of course hanging it from just drywall is doable too but I wouldn't do it again myself. We did two closets that way hanging the track about 7 feet high. Always stronger with studs or the top beam being the best option.

A:  As long as your fasteners go into a stud it will be more than adequate. If for some reason the holes don’t match up with studs, drilling additional holes is a good alternative. I’ve used this system in three areas of my house and find it easy to install, flexible, strong, and durable.

A:  5 is plenty as long as you hit some studs.

A:  Aligning to mount in studs is best to carry load. It is ok to use every other in studs, the hole pattern is to allow adjustment/alignment during mounting so can ideally mount to studs. If necessary you can easily drill holes if needed to align for non-standard stud spacing.

A:  No house will have enough studs to mount on every hole. For the holes that didn't line up with studs, I used screw-in achors, rated for ~50 lbs each.

A:  Hello. On an 80" hang track, we recommend at least 2 holes mounted directly into the studs. Thank you for your inquiry.

A:  I suppose it all depends on what kind of weight load will be on the shelves and what type of studs you have metal/wood? I would always weigh on the side of caution and use every hole possible to secure.

A:  I certainly used less than 10 on most of these. I think they are for drywall anchors. Five 3 1/2 wood secrws into studs should be fine. I hope you do t think this is an insult - don’t use drywall screws.

A:  The hang track should be secured every 16" into studs. The hang track does not have to be at ceiling level but just a few inches above where you want the highest shelf to be positioned. This height will dictate what length of standards you will use (i.e the shorter one will save you some money) Just make sure the hang track is mounted perfectly level. If your mounting the unit inside a closet (wall-to-wall) then I have one add'l recommendation. When you measure/cut the shelving, don't try to make them perfectly tight. Give yourself some wiggle room so you don't marr up the side walls. I did that and had to touch up the paint after putting all those supplies away. .

A:  If you hit a few studs you are fine but I use all 10 for extra security

A:  Standards spacing depends on anticipated weight on the shelves, more is better. I like a screw into the wall stud. Get or borrow a stud finder, drilling tiny test holes to locate studs and knocking may also help. Bracket length get longer (if available) for higher weight rating.

A:  It all depends on how heavy the stuff on are planning to place on the shelf. I would place one every 32 inches.

A:  If you're using the 20" shelving you need the 20" bracket.. they fit right to the edge of the shelf. ShelfTrack 20 in. x .5 in. White Shelf Bracket As for spacing if you're using the hang track here and the standards that go with it.. spacing should be no more than 24" apart. Depending on how much weight you want to put on the shelf you should go less than that. I have mine the standard wall stud width of 16" and have the standards screwed into the studs as well as the top hang track. Lastly I'm not sure what you're screwing the hang track into be it concrete or wood if it's an inner wall. But if you're putting it into the horizontal 2x4 that runs along the top of your wall you need to make sure exactly where that board is. We did a remodel recently and I was shocked to find out there was a gap between the 2x4 running along the top and the ceiling. If you put the hang track against the ceiling in this case you're in trouble. If you're putting it on an inner wall use a small drill bit to find out exactly where the bottom of that board is so you'll know the center of the 1.5" you have to hang the track from.

A:  First, you want your standards set 3 for every 36 inches, for support. Second, if using 20' wire shelving you use 20' brackets. Yes, there are size brackets, for the size of wire shelves.

A:  Every 2 feet

A:  Regarding your inquiry, the recommended spacing for the vertical standards is from 16-24" apart. you need to have at least 2-4" of overhang space on each side before putting a bracket in. Also, for your reference, the model number for our 20" shelftrack support bracket is 285500.