Questions and Answers for Hamilton Whole House Furnace Mount Flow Through Humidifier

A:  You should be able to flip the cover as necessary for either right or left. Do not install upside down.

A:  The humidifier is designed symmetrically which allows the 6 in. bypass opening to point to the right or the left side. This makes for a more flexible installation. If you have any other questions, give us a call at 800-879-0123.

A:  You would have to purchases a digital humidity level meter, cost $15 and up. You can get at Home depot.

A:  The best range for humidity is between 35% to 45%. If you slowly move the dial of your humidistat upward from 0, you should hear/feel a click. This spot indicates the current percentage level sensed by the humidistat. When setting the humidistat above this level, your humidifier will cycle when there is a call for heat. Once the desired humidity level is reached, the humidifier will not cycle. Hygrometers measure humidity and can be purchased if you wish to monitor the humidity level more closely continuously.

A:  The efficiency will go down a little but it will still work.

A:  Your application sounds like it is beyond the maximum sq. ft. that the unit is designed for, therefore, we cannot say that it is likely to work well for your application. Our concern is that it would not be able to keep-up even if the home is well insulated; this humidifier may be undersized

A:  If you live in a very cold / dry region, 45% - 50% humidity during the winter months is going to require multiple mist-style humidifiers, possibly even one per room. In cold regions where the outside humidity is extremely low during the winter, evaporation-style humidifiers (like this one) will never be able to put that much moisture in the air. I live in Maine where winters are cold and the air is dry (snow doesn't do much for the humidity level). This unit keeps my humidity around 30% through the winter while running only while the heat is on (I also have a stand-alone, evaporation-style humidifier in the bedroom that I run overnight). Last winter I ran this whole-house unit 24x7 with the fan, even when the heat was off, and it averaged 35% - 38% humidity in the house. If you're somewhere farther south, where outside temperatures are warmer (and more moisture is in the outside air), then hitting higher humidity levels with this unit will be easier.

A:  Based on the details you provided, a steam humidifier seems to be the best fit. However, we unfortunately do not offer such a unit. unfortunately.

A:  The length of the flex duct is approximately 36-in., the length of the plastic water supply tubing is approximately 7-ft., and the length of the drain tubing line is approximately 8-ft.

A:  Just by looking at my unit (already installed) I would guess about 6-7 feet long.

A:  We would like to understand what was bad about the Honeywell humidifier to be able answer your question better. For instance, did it operate properly, but didn't seem to humidify the home? If so, there could be other reasons for that to occur. From an operational aspect, the main difference is that the Hamilton 12HF is a water-saver that only uses fresh water which is pulsed through and can be installed to either activate the humidifier based on the plenum temperature, or wired in-line with the thermostat connections so that it operates per the call for heat. Feel free to give us a call at 800-879-0123 so that we might help any other questions you might have.

A:  To respond to the tech support folks: thanks for taking the time to respond. The Honeywell has major solenoid issues. The air pressure switch to turn the unit on when the furnace comes on does not work. Once you get it operational, if you can, it wastes a tremendous amount of water and is designed to only put out 20-28% humidity, regardless of what setting it's on. As I already have all the holes due to the failed Honeywell experiments, I was wondering if this would perform better.

A:  Yes, this unit requires a floor drain.

A:  Yes. Water is released in short bursts at the top of the unit and trickles down through the pad. Excess water runs out the bottom through a hose to a floor drain or equivalent.

A:  I had to hire a plumber to install the unit. It cost me about $100, but well worth it.

A:  You will need to contact your local store to inquire if installation is offered on this humidifier as it is sold so that you can arrange for your own installation, or by a local qualified technician.

A:  I don't think so, but you could back it up with fender washers and double-nuts if you want. You can would use a strap around the whole unit. Get nylon or plastic strap (or metal, if you must), and belt the humidifier to the duct, or screw it to neighboring joists. Keep in mind, this will make servicing the filter harder.

A:  This is a great application question and is not the first time that it has been asked. Yes, you will have to come up with a sheet metal mounting plate that securely attaches to the duct board in such a way that there is an outer surface to attach everything as well as an inner flange to hold all mounting plates in place. There are 4 things that must be mounted to either the warm air supply or the cold air plenum depending upon your application; the plenum controller, the humidistat, the 6 in. by-pass duct connector, and the frame of the body of the humidifier.

A:  Unit on the warm side, definitely. Return to the cold side.

A:  The recommended installation is to place the housing of the humidifier on the cold air return, but the installation instructions show it both ways. There is generally more area available to easily mount the housing on the cold air return which can simplify installation. Since this is a bypass style humidifier, and due to the natural circulation of air through the furnace, the direction of the circulation of humidity is the same no matter if you install the housing on the warm air plenum or the cold air return. Make sure to review the installation directions completely and give us a call should you have any questions prior to installing the unit.