How to Tile a Shower Wall

• Install a 4-mil plastic vapor barrier according to manufacturer instructions just above the shower pan before installing the cement backer board.
• Measure your panels of cement backer board to fit the shower walls on each side. Put on mask and ear protection and, as needed, mark and cut a panel to fit using an angle grinder. Smooth the cut edge.
• Begin with the length of the shower. Screw each panel to the studs using 1 1/4-inch cement board drywall screws. Install screws every 4 inches along seams and every 6 inches along non-seams, leaving a 1/8-inch gap between each of the panels. Continue on to the rear width of the shower stall.
• Be sure the cement board is flush with the tile lip of the base. If needed, nail composite shims to the studs behind the board to ensure the fit.
• At the front width of the shower stall, use a hole saw to cut out the spaces in the backer board where the new fixtures will be installed, then attach to the studs.
• Seal the gap between the panels with 100 percent silicone tile caulk.
• Apply a strip of fiberglass mesh tape over each seam and in the corners. Staple into place, then apply a coating of thin-set mortar over all the mesh tape. Keep the application as flat and even as possible to prevent buildup.
• There will likely be a gap between the wallboard and the edge of the cement backer. Apply seam tape and thin-set mortar to seal the gap. There should be no visible gap between the two.
• Apply two coats of water-proofing membrane paint over the entire surface you intend to tile, allowing the paint to dry between coats.
• Fill in any small gaps with a second application of silicone caulk.

• Begin the bathroom tile installation with the second row up from the bottom. If the shower base is uneven, tiles will have to be cut to fit the last row.
• Draw a leveled line where the bottom of the second row will fall.
• Attach a straight board to the backer board along the line. This will provide a straight edge for the tile to follow and help support it while it dries.

• Mix Thin-Set mortar according to directions.
• Use a drill with a paddle bit attachment to mix the mortar in a bucket. Allow to set for seven minutes, then mix again. The final mixture should be the consistency of peanut butter.
• Save time by using pre-mixed Thin-Set mortar. Remove a small amount at a time and reseal the container.
• Only mix or remove enough Thin-Set for each row you are tiling. Do not let the Thin-Set dry out before it is applied or the hold won’t be strong enough for the tile.

• Run a damp sponge over the backer board in the area you intend to tile.
• Spread Thin-Set along the first section of your tile row.
• Turn over the trowel to the notched side and comb over in one direction.
• Use a small amount of the excess mortar and spread it onto the back of a tile with the notched side of the trowel. If using small tiles, you can skip this step.
• Press the tile into the mortar gently but firmly, aligned along your board guide. Wiggle it gently to help it settle into the mortar.
• Insert a tile spacer then repeat the process to add the next piece of tile.
• Continue adding tiles to the row until it is complete. When you come to the corner, mark and cut the tile to fit in to the final space.
• Allow the first row to dry and cure overnight. Ths will help anchor the subsequent rows.

• Start a new row above the first row and continue setting tile as instructed. Cut as needed with tile snips or a wet tile saw to allow tile pieces a better fit around shower faucets and shower heads.
• Periodically check the tile line with a level to be sure they are straight.
• For exposed edges, set edge trim or bullnose tile pieces in place.
• Once only the bottom row is remaining, remove the support board.
• Measure and cut tile pieces to fit the bottom row. Avoid having the bottom of the tile flush with the bottom edge of the cement board. Leave about a half inch of overlap on each tile.

• Once the bathroom tile has set and cured for 24 hours, remove the tile spacers.
• Mix up your desired grout color according to manufacturer directions.
• Using a runner float, apply grout in small areas at a time. Drag the float diagonally to work the compound into the joints.
• Let the compound dry for 10 minutes then wipe away excess with a damp sponge, being careful not to wipe it out of the joints.
• Complete the grout, working upward in small sections.
• Allow the grout to dry then remove the haze from the tiles with a haze remover.
• After three days, seal the grout and then add silicone caulk to the corners, edges and floor joints of the shower.

Tip: Considering adding a new glass shower door to show-off your new shower tile.