Faced or unfaced it could irritate your skin if it touches it during install so long sleeves are a must. Once up, you should cover it (thin sheathing or sheet rock depending on your use for the shed) or it will grab onto dust, dirt, etc in the shed. In my opinion this product does cut down noise better than fiberglass, but if that’s your primary need for it, use the Roxul product intended for sound deadening instead.
Use roxul safe and sound. Then quite rock. Sheetrock
No! Mineral wool or fiberglass need to be sealed off from breathing organisms, like people and animals. Inhaling small fibers causes many health problems.
Dear WolfCreeker: Any type of insulation can become tunnels and nesting areas for rodents -- if they can get access. This is typically a problem is ventilated and unsealed attics, where whatever insulation was installed can become a 'home' for rodents. Your studio probably doesn't need an attic. I am also an artist, and an open space above would be better than a ceiling. You could add triangular windows on one or both sides, for more light. This isn't expensive. So if you have an insulated roof, you can fill the rafter bays with rock wool (R-4.1 per inch), and rodents will not be able to access it. This is also true for the walls; you can fill the stud bays with rock wool If your studio is in a part of the country with cold winters, you could add 1" or 2" layer of polyiso foam board on the surface of the rafters and studs. This would add R-6.5 or R-13, would 'break' all of the 'thermal bridges' created by the wood framing, and would allow you to air seal the surface. Seal all of the joints and perimeter, to block air leaks. DAP 230 or HVAC mastic work well for joints and small gaps. Use the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff spray foam for larger gaps. Foam board is flammable, however, and must be covered by an approved 'thermal barrier', e.g. 1/2" drywall. The floor also needs insulation, if you live in an area with cold winters. Fill the joist bays with rock wool or Foamular XPS foam board. Finally, air sealing is almost as important as insulation R-value. Seal every seam, gap etc. HVAC mastic is a good option for small gaps; use the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff for larger gaps. You could also 'wrap' the exterior walls with Henry Blueskin self-adhesive film.and cover the roof with Grace Ice & Water Shield. Neither are expensive. In addition to air-sealing, these products protect against water leaks and damage. For windows, I recommend Marvin fiberglass framed, Low-E, argon filled, two or three paned. Fiberglass is much stronger than vinyl, and the cost difference is negligible. Marvin makes custom fixed pane versions, e.g. for the triangular windows near the peak of the roof -- and awning / casement versions for ventilation. (Classic double-hung windows do not seal effectively.) I hope this info is helpful, and your project is successful! Mark
Dear Krunne: Yes, but pack it tight. Rock wool is made from rock so it is very flame resistant. I hope this is helpful. Mark
Dear Person: If "under floors" means insulating the floor joists in your crawl space or unheated basement, then yes, rock wool is ideal. You can also order versions to match the depth of your joists, e.g. for 2x6 and 2x8 joists. Use Simpson insulation wire to hold the batts in place. See: Simpson Strong =-Tie Model # IS16-R100, Home Depot Internet #100375163, UPC Code # 044315396618 Store SKU #594333 RockWool does not contain formadehyde or asbestos. It is made from molten rock, so it cannot be 'recycled' but does not pollute the environment. I hope this is helpful, Mark
Dear Moesenfreunde: Thanks for including the photo. First, you need to create ventilation channels that run from the soffit vents along the bottom edge of your roof to the ridge vent at the top -- so that air can travel up along the underside of the roof deck, and not be blocked by new insulation. These channels are easy to assemble with 1" thick XPS Foamular foam board, with narrow pieces of foam board along the edge of the rafters as standoffs - to create a 1 1/2" air space. Or you can purchase pre-made air channels; see: ADO Model # UPV1448010, Home Depot Internet #202541345. I recommend creating your own with 1" Foamular foam board; this is quick and easy, the channels are stronger and will add R-5 to your final assembly. These air channels will ventilate your roof deck and eliminate the potential for rot. Second, mount rock wool batts in the rafter bays, over the air channels. Rock wool is much denser than fiberglass, so make sure you don't crush the pre-made air channels if you use them. Use Simpson insulation wire to hold the batts in place. This product is available for 16" or 24" spans. See: Simpson Model # IS16-R100, Home Depot Internet #100375163, Store SKU #594333 Third, mount 1" or 2" polyisocyanurate foam board on the surface of your rafters. This will add R-6.5 to R-13 to your roof / ceiling, plus break all of the 'thermal bridges' created by the (previously) exposed wood rafters, and allow you to effectively air-seal the ceiling. Screw the foam board panels to the bottom of your rafters, over the rock wool. Carefully seal all of the joints and edges to block air leaks. HVAC mastic works well for joints and small gaps. Use the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff spray foam for larger gaps. All of these products are sold by Home Depot. As for a reflective / radiant barrier, you could apply one to the roof-side of the foam panels used to create the air channel. This would only be marginally helpful, however, and only if you have hot summers in your location. I hope this is helpful. Mark
Dear D926: Rockwool is an excellent insulation solution for walls, and you do not need a vapor barrier. Modern building science shows that walls need the ability to slowly dry to at least one side. Because your adjoining room is in a basement, the concrete floor is also a 'thermal bridge' that steals heat. Is the floor insulated? If not, this is a good step. Here are some tips for insulating a basement that may be helpful. All of the products are available at Home Depot: (1) Make sure there are no cracks and leaks in the concrete walls. Fill and seal cracks with Sikaflex Model # 7116110, Home Depot Internet #300934565 Store SKU #652010 If moisture is coming through the wall, apply damp-proofing to the surface. Products like Drylok can provide an important layer of moisture protection. See: Drylok Model # 28615, Home Depot Internet #202610896 Store SKU #1000531519. This product will minimize diffusion from the soil through the foundation. (2) Use 2" thick Foamular XPS foam board against the concrete walls. XPS does not absorb moisture; a 2" thick layer will provide R-10 insulation plus a strong vapor retarder. (3) Using foam board compatible glue, fasten sheets of foam board to your concrete walls. Apply a thick bead around the perimeter of each sheet, to create an air seal when it is pressed against the concrete wall. See: Loctite PL300 Model # 1421941, Home Depot Internet #202020476 Store SKU #780400. You can lean a 2x4 against each sheet to hold it in place while the glue sets, or pin them in place with a RamSet. After all of the sheets of foam board are installed, seal all of the joints and edges to block air leaks. DAP 230 works well for joints and small gaps; the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff foam is good for larger gaps. (4) Build your new 2x interior wall in front of the foam board. Use pressure treated (PT) lumber for the sole plate. If water leaks could occur and the floor may be damp, install a piece of Veranda cellular PVC trim on the floor first, to lift the sole plate off the concrete and keep if from rotting; leave small gaps every few feet for water to trickle through under the DriCore panels noted below. Use a RamSet to drive nails into the concrete, or drill holes for expansion bolts. We use bolts in areas with high stress, e.g. near doorways, stair landings and the ends of pony walls. See: RamSet Model # 00022, Home Depot Internet #100091715 Store SKU #107708. Be sure to wear ear and eye protection when you use a RamSet. (5) Insulate and seal the rim joist pockets: Install 2" thick pieces of Foamular 250 in the pocket at the end of each floor joist -- to insulate and seal the rim joist. Seal the edges with the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff foam to block air leaks. Then fill the rest of the end of each bay with rock wool. (6) Run your electric lines to receptacles and lights. Fire block (seal) the holes in the studs with 3M Fire Block sealant. See: 3M Model # FB 136, Home Depot Internet #100390499 Store SKU #191728 DO NOT use any type of spray foam, even if it says "Fire Block" on the label, e.g. Great Stuff. These spray foam are actually very flammable. Informed building inspectors can fail an inspection if they find spray foam used for fire blocking. (7) Fill the stud bays with rock wool. See: Owens Corning Model # UB-40-P3D-15--47--121, Home Depot Internet #304633821 Store SKU #1003061505 (8) If there is any possibility of a water leak into your basement, install DriCore panels on the floor first. They have a rubber surface on the bottom with channels that water can trickle through. Make sure, of course, that you have a drain with a dry well or sump pump for the water to escape to. Carefully seal all of the joints and edges of the DriCore panels to block air / moisture leaks. Then install 1" of Foamular on top of the DriCore, and seal the joints and edges. Cover the Foamular with 3/4" plywood as the subfloor / nailbase for your new flooring. Run the plywood 90 degrees from the direction of the foam board, with a 1/2" gap around the edge for expansion. Again, seal all of the joints and edges. See: DriCore Model # CDGNUS750024024, Home Depot Internet #202268752 Store SKU #361018. We installed DriCore at a recent project as a fail-safe, even though the basement was dry. Water leaked in unexpectedly through a window during a downpour, and DriCore saved the new floor. If you are certain that there is no possibility of a water leak into your basement, install 1" thick Foamular 250 on the concrete floor -- and seal the joints and edges. Cover this with 3/4" plywood, running 90 degrees to the foam board panels. Leave a 1/2" gap around the edge to allow for expansion. Again, seal all of the joints and edges. (9) Also read up on fire blocking, which many people overlook. This is required at the top of basement walls, along the walls, at the top of stairs, etc. Do a Google search for "How to Firestop Your Basement" from ContractorKurt. Roxul rock wool is a good solution. You can stuff it into the gap at the top of the wall and into the end of floor joist bays. To seal holes created for pipes and wiring, use fire resistant caulk, e.g. 3M Model # CP-25WB+, Home Depot Internet #100166701 Store SKU #163096.. DO NOT use the "Fireblock" version of Great Stuff foam; as noted above. I hope this is helpful. Mark