Questions and Answers for Everbilt 3/8 in. x 10 ft. Soft Copper Refrigeration Coil Tubing

A:  yes. No problem

A:  Yes. The description indicates that it can be used in residential water supply lines. I used it for a supply line to a furnace duct mounted humidifier. It is easy to work with due to its flexibility.

A:  yes. just add compression fitting. bend copper where you want it.

A:  That's exactly what I'm using it for.

A:  Without knowing what the requirements are for the piece you are replacing on you compressor, I can’t answer your question. I did locate the specifications of this copper tubing: refrigeration coil’s maximum working temperature is 350 degrees F. Its maximum working pressure reaches 1195. I hope this helps.

A:  Yes, that's what I used it for, and it's holding up strong years later

A:  yes. This refrigeration copper tube all measurements are O.D. it will fit into 1/2" area.

A:  Yes, you could do that with this tubing except this tubing is just 10 feet long and you would have to join two lengths of tubing while making sure your idea is up to code.

A:  Hello Mac, It is completely acceptable to bury/embed both hard drawn and annealed copper tube in concrete. Decades of satisfactory service experience with the use of copper tube for in-floor radiant heating systems for instance attest to the compatibility of copper tube embedded, encased or in contact with concrete. However, the copper tube must be completely embedded in the concrete and adequate provision for thermal expansion should be provided where the tube enters/exits the concrete. Both of the protection methods outlined above and the requirements listed in most plumbing codes are simply to protect the copper tube from the fatigue and wear caused by thermal expansion and movement. These protective measures are in no way dictated by the interaction of the concrete and the copper tube. According to the Portland Cement Association the interaction of copper with both dry and wet concrete should not cause a corrosion concern. However, copper should be protected when it comes in contact with concrete mixtures that contain components high in sulfur, such as cinders and fly-ash, which can create an acid that is highly corrosive to most metals including copper. Therefore, to be on the safe side, I would wrap the pipe in some sort of tape or even a plastic sleeve - at the point where it emerges/enters the floor. I might even go the extra mile and sleeve it in something while in the floor as well (like clear tubing slit down the side or spiral taped). As for the tubing itself, buy the tubing just before your project. Annealed copper is softest when new. Unroll the copper by placing a weight or foot on the end and rolling out the tubing so the tube is straight (or similar to your pathway). DO NOT unwind it so it's a big spring! Remember, every time you change the shape of the copper, it becomes harder, so do not overly bend it (plan ahead). Ensure not to kink it and unroll 18" to 24" extra. Do not cut the tubing from the roll yet! First, work the far end that is unrolled. Make this your sink end. Make any radius bends about 9" to 12" from the end of the copper. Make bends slowly and keep moving your hands back and forth using your thumbs as the bend point against your 8 fingers. The extra length will give you leverage. Keep moving your thumbs throughout the curve. If you kink the tubing, cut it out and do it again. On the fridge end, leave three coils of copper as is, then unroll another 18". The three coils will serve as your pigtail to move the fridge out and back again. Only when making your final connections should you cut the excess off. For best results, use flare fittings (you would need 3/8" flare fittings, nuts, and a flaring tool). If you are using compression fittings, ensure the ends of the copper are very straight and not subject to pulling tension in any direction. I ran a new feed for a commode through floors and walls with many bends using 1/2" tubing with flare fittings. These never leak (see picture) running back to traditional rigid copper. Compression fittings work when done right but you will occasionally need to move the fridge in and out and sometimes that causes the fitting to leak. Lastly if you must make sharp turns (turns tighter than you can hand bend them), using brass fittings to make the needed turns. Do not use fittings within the floor though. I hope this helps. Jeff in Seattle

A:  yes

A:  Yes. It is easy to unbend. You can also bend it in any shape if you previously fill it with dry sand or salt.

A:  Yes, it's quite malleable.

A:  Its intended use is for water supply lines for a refrigerator's icemaker so liquids that pass thru it are fine. Not sure how anything you might drink would come into contact with the exterior, though.

A:  Yes, it's absolutely safe. The only codicil is to make sure any soldered joints, are soldered with "Lead Free Solder" – and using a water-soluable soldering flux.

A:  Yes, it is lead free.