Types of Striking Tools

Striking tools come in a variety of weights and sizes. When selecting the right striking tool and their uses, consider your size and physical strength. An oversized tool or outdoor tool that’s too heavy for you can cause muscle and joint injuries as well as greater fatigue. While a heavy tool may do more work per swing, it can be more tiring, resulting in less work overall. Be sure to take frequent breaks when using oversized or heavy striking tools and outdoor tools.

If the striking tool you’ve chosen has a long handle, grip the end of the handle with your support hand while moving the strong hand toward the head as you lift the tool. While swinging, slide the strong hand back towards the end. This prevents extra strain on your wrists and elbows. It’s also important to strike straight into the work rather than making an arc toward your body. Bend your knees as the tool comes down or rotate your body through the swing. Always be mindful of where the head of the tool will go if it breaks through the work and continues in its path, or if it glances off the side.

When shopping for a striking tool, look for one with a grip to help you avoid striking your hand during use. Tools with heat-treated handles will bend just a little and won't snap off as easily. Hold the tool in your hand to see if the fit is comfortable. For the striking end, the harder the metal, the more strength the tool will have. Finally, if you have only one job to complete, you can save money and purchase a cheaper tool. But for best results and longevity, splurge on a quality tool built to last.

Sledge hammers are used to break large rocks or concrete slabs, drive large stakes, split wedges for firewood and compact soil in a targeted small area. Most tools in this category have two striking faces, a round face on one end and a wedged face on the other.

Many smaller hammers look like sledge hammers and are named for their original uses in skilled trades. Engineer, drilling and blacksmith hammers denote a specific hammer design, but can also be used for other jobs.

With the exception of wedges designed to be struck by a hammer, don’t hit other metal tools with a sledge hammer. Striking a metal tool like the poll of an axe will damage the axe and cause pieces of sharp metal to break off and fly through the air. Hammers such as claw hammers and ball peen hammers can be used in the lawn and garden for jobs such as driving nails into wood or spikes into the ground.

Another striking tool example is a hammer designed to strike surfaces without damaging them. This includes mallets with heads made of wood, rubber, plastic, various soft metals or other materials and dead blow hammers.

A dead blow hammer has loose weight inside the head that allows it to deliver a blow without bouncing or rebounding from the surface being hit.

Some mallets are constructed with replaceable striking surfaces. These tools have a wide range of uses around the house. They can also be used for setting pavers or stepping stones.

Areas where fill dirt has been added may need to be tamped down to prevent erosion. Tampers compact soil, gravel and crushed stone in preparation for laying pavers or pouring concrete. For large areas, a powered plate compactor can be rented from The Home Depot.

A pick axe, or pick, narrows to a long, slender point and is used to break up very hard ground and to dislodge rocks.

A mattock, or grub hoe, is flat and perpendicular to the handle, like a hoe or adze.
A mattock is used to dig dirt that is too hard for a shovel, or to make trenches.

A digging adze is lighter and more nimble than a mattock, but with similar striking similarities.

A root axe, digging axe or turf axe is used to cut roots or make narrow trenches. An axe for wood is harder and more brittle and will chip if it hits rock. A root axe is made of softer metal that doesn’t hold a sharp edge but dents instead of breaks when it hits rock.

You can purchase combination tools that include heads of two different kinds of pickaxes and mattocks.

Bar diggers are heavy steel or iron bars, usually with a point on one end and a wider blade or round knob on the other end, used to dislodge and move rocks, dig deep post holes and tamp or compact soil around posts or in targeted locations.

When digging in rocky soil, a digging bar can be used to dig a small area beside the rock so that you can then pry it out of the way.

When digging a deep, narrow hole such as a post hole, a digging bar can move rocks and break up hard soil. Often, the pointed end is driven or dropped in, then the handle is worked in a circular motion to create a hole.

When setting a post in a hole, fill dirt can be packed around it by dropping the pointed end into the loose dirt, then filling the hole with more loose dirt. Repeat the process to make a post installation that will not move. Some digging bars have a tamper end that will do this more effectively.

A digging bar or sledge hammer can also be used to straighten or plumb a post. If the post leans to one side, compact the soil on that side to push it the other way.

These heavy tools are squarely in the category of “let the tool do the work.” Trying to manhandle them will wear you out quickly.

These outdoor tools bridge the gap between striking and cutting tools.

Use axes and hatchets to cut trees, remove limbs or do rough woodwork. Drive wooden stakes with the hammer, or “poll” end, but do not strike metal with it. There are specialty axes that have hardened polls for striking metal, but these are usually specified as carpenter’s axes or framing hatchets. A nice axe or hatchet with a sharp edge shouldn’t be used in the ground. Dirt is abrasive and will dull the edge quickly and rocks will chip the hardened edge.

Mauls, sometimes called “splitting axes,” are used for splitting firewood. Use care when swinging a sharp tool like an axe, maul or hatchet. Swing it so that it moves in a parallel line with your body while striking the work. Do not swing it so that it’s moving in an arc, back towards your body. Also, avoid holding a workpiece in your hand or stepping on it with your foot and then chopping towards it. If you miss, or if the head breaks through the wood, the sharp edge could hit you and cause serious injury.

Taking time to clean and maintain your striking tools and striking tool accessories will make them last much longer. Before storing, always wipe away any dirt and rinse with water if needed. Use a scouring pad to remove stubborn stains and dirt. Wipe dry and oil with mechanical oil.

If your tools have rusted, use a scouring pad to remove small rust stains and then sand with sandpaper to smooth. For larger amounts, pour vinegar into a bucket and submerge the tool if possible. You might also consider a chemical rust remover.

In addition to cleaning your tools, sharpen them with a file on a regular basis to keep them in good working condition.

When storing striking tools, find a dry out-of-the-way corner and prop them with the handle up, or lay them on a low shelf to prevent injury if they fall.