How to Remove Popcorn Ceilings

If your home was built before the mid-1980s, popcorn ceilings may contain a hazardous mineral called asbestos. Before starting this project, it’s important to test your ceiling. You can call an asbestos specialist or use an EPA-approved asbestos test kit.

The presence of asbestos in a home isn’t dangerous unless the asbestos is disturbed. Scraping the popcorn texture will release fibers and create a health hazard if asbestos is present. Removing asbestos should only be done by a certified abatement contractor. The guidelines in this project are suggested only for those who do not have asbestos in their home.

To begin, gather the required tools and materials for removing your popcorn ceiling:

• A ladder to reach high ceilings and tight corners. (Have a partner stand nearby for added safety.)
• Plastic sheeting or water-resistant tarps to cover floors, walls, furnishings and fixtures.
• 2-inch wide painter’s tape.
• A fan to create airflow.
• Painter's extension poles and scrapers.
• Wide paint scraper or drywall knife for scraping into corners.
• A spray bottle or garden sprayer to wet the ceiling.
• Drywall compound or spackling paste to patch damaged areas.
• A hammer to drive nails below the surface or a screwdriver for screws.
• Sanding blocks.
• Paint rollers, trays and brushes.
• Primer for bare drywall.
• Paint
• A work light with an extension cord to get power from another room, or a battery-powered work light.
• PPE, dust masks and safety glasses or goggles. Many people find that a full face shield is best to keep falling debris off of their face.

Preparing your space is important to stay safe and keep your space clean:

• Move furniture from the immediate area. Cover unmovable pieces with a waterproof tarp or heavy plastic sheeting to shield them from dust and debris.
• Turn off the heating and cooling system.
• Turn off power to all ceiling fans and lighting fixtures in the room by turning off the breakers in the panel box.
• Cover the floor with plastic sheeting or waterproof tarps.
• Apply plastic sheeting to walls by taping it just below the ceiling.
• Make sure to keep the room properly ventilated to allow fresh airflow. This is best done by venting the room to outdoors, using a fan blowing outward.

Once your space has been prepped, it is time to remove the popcorn ceiling with these steps:

• Prepare to scrape off the textured material. Make sure to wear the proper safety protection when removing popcorn ceilings.
• Use a paint scraper to help extend your reach. Pair it with a handle or painter's pole.
• You can scrape each section while it’s dry, but applying a bit of water will help moisten and remove the material if the process becomes difficult. For dry scraping, work in small sections of about four to six square feet.
• If you prefer to moisten the area, wet a small section of the ceiling with a bottle of warm water. Apply enough water to loosen the material without causing damage to the drywall underneath. Make several passes if necessary. Wait 15 to 20 minutes for the material to absorb the water, then begin scraping. If the material is still difficult to remove, repeat the moistening process.
• Whichever method you choose, use a 4 or 6-inch wide putty knife to scrape corners, crown molding and extra residue. Remember to tidy the spots around fixtures that are left hanging.
• Be careful not to gouge the drywall with the corner of the putty knife or tear joint tape during the removal process.

Tip: If your popcorn ceiling is covered in paint, it may be more difficult to remove. Paint can prevent the texture from absorbing water. Try dry scraping. If this doesn't work, you’ll likely need a paint stripper to break down the paint barrier. Follow the bottle instructions when applying a chemical stripper. More safety precautions will be needed if working with a chemical stripper overhead.

You may need to patch some areas of drywall after the texture has been removed. Popcorn ceilings hide flaws that will become visible once the surface is uncovered. To complete your project:

• Lightly sand the ceiling once the repair work is dried. Keep the sanding to a minimum so that you don’t damage any areas by sanding through the paper covering of the drywall.
• Some nails may protrude from under the ceiling. These are called "nail pops." Drive them back in with a hammer or pull them out and replace with drywall screws.
• If you come across a visible nail or screw below the surface, cover it with joint compound. Allow it to fully dry, then sand the area.
• Prime and paint your ceiling in the color you wish.
• Once your paint is dry, turn the power back on and arrange the room back to normal.