Hi Tim, this copper tube is designed for refrigeration applications and is not Type M. We hope this helps with your purchase.
Sadly, there can be a kink left in the tubing by the machine that turns it into a coil as it grabs the end of the tubing. Usually, the best thing to do is square up the end using a tubing cutter (like HD SKU 1003067549) to take off the kink and prepare the tubing for the nut and the swage (to create the flare). Just be sure to ream out the burr so the swage will insert easily and work properly. As always, make sure the installation complies with all code for the installation. No sense doing all the work and then not being able to use it.
Hi Lee, for this type of project we recommend checking local plumbing code prior to beginning. This copper tubing was designed for use with refrigeration applications. We hope this helps with your project.
Hi Martha, when connecting with a copper line you will need a fitting with a compression connection. Prior to starting your project we recommend checking local plumbing codes to ensure the right materials are present. We hope this helps with your purchase.
It's not an issue of the copper melting, but, since copper is so malleable, the properties of the metal are affected by heat, and so the pressure ratings of the tubing are tested at 150°F for consistency in the industry and overall safety of the users. On the other hand, I agree that the phrasing of the information in the specifications could be clearer. As a similar issue, many jurisdictions prohibit use of soft copper to distribute flammable gas, but because some do, this tubing is advertised for that purpose. As always, talk to your local building inspector to be sure what code requires in your situation.
Possibly, but probably not. Most jurisdictions don't allow flammable gas to be distributed in copper. Usually, code requires fitting black steel threaded pipe to carry gas to appliances. If possible, fit the gas line to the appliance using only black steel (and remember a drip leg and service shutoff), although it might be necessary to use a flexible gas supply line to go the last foot or two, but use only flexible lines rated for gas (HD SKU 1002955250). Something to consider is, if you have a fire, even unrelated to the gas appliance, the insurance can deny the claim because of a non-compliant installation, and even if you do get the copper tubing installed so that the appliance operates, if a plumber or inspector happens to see the gas run in copper, they might red-tag the appliance, or even your entire gas system.
This type of tubing is rated for pressures over 800 PSI, so it should be able to handle the flow either direction between the heat pump and the air handler, although its diameter is large enough to suggest it be used for the high temperature return to the heat pump. The main issue with using this tubing for one (or both) side(s) of the line pair is that it is not insulated. If you were to wrap it with closed cell pipe insulation, it should be suitable for this use. Please verify whether the code in your area requires a licensed professional to fill the system with refrigerant.
This tubing can be used for domestic hot water distribution through the walls or to an appliance, but it is a bit big for a dishwasher, and a bit small for a sink and a dishwasher. If you are thinking about using this tubing to run from the stop valve to the dishwasher itself, again, this tubing can do that duty. But using braided supply line (SKU #1001274429 for the kit) is often easier, because the hose is much more flexible.
I'm assuming that you are referring to Industrial Pipe Thread (IPT or just PT). Using a brass fitting (known as a reducer) which has compression fittings both sides could work, but HD doesn't list this fitting on HD.com. Alternately, depending on the temperatures and pressures in your application, you might use a "bite" connector (SKU # 1002429610) to join these tubes, or you could sweat (solder) them together using a coupler fitting (SKU #181957). The solder connection allows for higher pressures and temperatures.
I'd call my local LP utility/provider to be sure. I've only seen black iron pipe, coated aluminum (flex) tubing, or rubber tubing used to transport gas but haven't had any experience with larger LP gas tanks. While copper is easy to work with it's also easily damaged (kinked/cracked/dented) if handled improperly. Might be best to hand this off to a pro.