1/2 in. x 4 in. Steel Hex-Head Sleeve Anchors (25-Pack)

I would use the 4 inch anchors. They will work well for you

Brick not mortar - be careful :) size of anchor and mass of brick column can also be an issue. If this is load-bearing, consult a contractor.

That is also an issue and you should not attach with large diameter anchor such as 1/2" above (will split the brick) - or to any great depth. Wow! what are you wanting to build?

for the 1/2" anchor - use the recommended 1/2" bit on the package. I have a Bosch SDS system, so bought the 1/2" SDS bit. My spouse saw me laboring too much so bought the Bosch 8 Amp Corded 1 in. SDS-Plus Bulldog Xtreme Variable Speed Rotary Hammer for me :)

Have never used the item (or seen it in stores). Spouse saw me laboring with an old 1/2" drill and bought me a Bosch 8 Amp Corded 1 in. SDS-Plus Bulldog Xtreme Variable Speed Rotary Hammer with Auxiliary Handle and Carrying Case. The SDS tool system had extra fluting to remove chaff, and what was left - I vacuumed with a pencil snout on my shop-vac

Some fasteners can corrode when combined with certain treated lumber. Note that treated lumber comes in structural and non-structural (for fences, etc.) varieties. Check with your recommendations from your metal connector provider (like, Strong-Tie). I ignored this once - had to rebuild 5 years later (have got to enjoy ignorance and building in the same breath) Be good to yourself - build for the future of yourself and family (or that family that will buy your place). ~Jillian

Not stainless - they come in Zinc-Plated Steel. Not sure of the grade, but had 16" 1/2"-drive handle adding plenty of torque. Stainless would be good for some applications, but have found it to be iffy when torqueing down.

From fastener specs, a class 2, 1/2 bolt with 13 pitch (course) has a clamp load of about 5,800 lbs. but that does not take in the anchor specs - nor the anchor target material, and how deep the anchor is in the base. I will sometimes give Granger a call for specs on fasteners (if the packaging or sales area does not have them). Often you will find that your Home Depot specialist has some good advice in the area - I have found that when they do not have the answer, they will level with you. Makes all the difference in the world (and, redundancy) My first reference would be DIY books with certified plans to give me a general idea on anchors - then, I kick it up a size, and double the count per linear foot. Always insure that my anchor target is clean and solid (or replace it) ~ Jillian

depends on the post-base, size and material for post, and how many anchors and what size of anchor the base takes. Then, what is your load distributed on that post. Start with your distributed/expected load (and building/permit requirements). Then, look at the base (minimum) required (I at least double that). The base will have recommended anchoring - look to that to take off on. Note that anchors in concrete and masonry can only be so close together, and that depends on the anchor size, depth, and the stress that the base will be under (and also, the nature of the material you are anchoring into). Simpson Strong Tie has all of the documentation to get started. The one below is for posts anchored to existing concrete, and uses 1/2" anchors. I have used this many times for fence posts on old concrete.

I think you are asking what weight it can hold. I can’t find that listed anywhere but it is dependent on the concrete you anchor it in and whatever shelf bracket you use with it. This anchor is likely stronger than most shelves you can hang with it