Questions and Answers for Loctite PL Door, Window, Siding 10 oz. Polyurethane Sealant White Cartridge (12 pack)

A:  Yes, you should be able to use either water based or oil based paint on this after it has cured properly.

A:  I painted over my project with Kilz water based primer first and then with a latex paint and it is doing fine for now. It has not been that long, only 2 weeks since installation and painting, but no peeling so far.

A:  I did and I don't know why not. For various reasons, the product had cured for a long time, when I painted it.

A:  Yes, Loctite PL White Polyurethane Window, Door and Siding Sealant can be painted after sealant is fully cured (typically 7 days or longer depending upon temperature and humidity conditions, and volume applied). A latex paint or primer should be used. Keep in mind that sealants are generally more flexible than paint.

A:  Yes, this caulk performs better if it is painted after it sets up. However, wait at least 24 to 72 hours before painting - a little longer if you are trying to seal a larger opening than 1/8 on an inch.

A:  The minimum ambient temperature, including surface temperatures and temperature of the product must be 40°F or above for successful application and results. The absolute best results are obtained when the PL Polyurethane Window, Door and Siding Sealant is applied between 60°F (16°C) and below 100°F (38°C).

A:  This will perform best if applied at a temperature of 60 degrees or more. Although I believe it will still work at lower temperatures it can be much more difficult to squeeze out of the tube and will require a longer time to set up.

A:  The temperature needs to be 40°F or above.

A:  I would not use this caulk if it was very cold outside. It can get quite hard to push out of the tube and occasionally the tube will break under the pressure from the caulking gun, potentially making quite a mess.

A:  Yes, it will adhere to the glass. However, you might want to use the Clear version of this product for such an application.

A:  It will adhere to glass, but will provably not clean up like a glazing caulk will. Only recommended if you do not care about appearance. This is meant to go between window frame and house materials.

A:  Yes

A:  The PL Polyurethane Window, Door and Siding sealant is designed for use around the window or door frames. It would not be an appropriate choice for sealing the gap between the glass and the wood frame. This does not mean you cannot do this kind of application but rather the adhesion of the intended sealant to glass may not be the best. What is important to know is what may have been used previously and whether the glass is an insulated type glass. This will dictate on what more than likely could be used.

A:  No.

A:  Grey is a different product; the one nominally for concrete. It is thinner than this one, if I recall correctly. It can be used on things other than concrete. However, some of those grey concrete products are very runny and can't be used where you would normally use caulk.

A:  The manufacturer still makes this in gray.

A:  I believe it does.

A:  Takes a while. 1 day at least. Worth the wait.

A:  That is completely normal. This stuff takes at least 3 days to cure, and often 7 days. So, it will stay tacky for a while. Add humidity to help it go faster.

A:  Can't say for sure, but that sounds normal to me. In my experience, it will form a skin within 48 hrs., but it is SLOW drying -- instructions say 7 days to cure. The good news is that once it does, it seems to last forever.

A:  This caulk can remain tacky for an extended period of time. It is best to paint over it after about 48 to 96 hours. The caulk should perform better once it is painted, and will no longer be tacky.

A:  The Loctite PL S40 Window, Door, and Siding Sealant has a skin over time of 24 hours. Tackiness does not always translate to the product being uncured. As long as the product is not transferring to your finger or another object then it is technically considered skinned over. Full cure can take up to 7 days.

A:  I believe it will, but I would wait about 96 hours before using stain on it to give it a good opportunity to set up, since paint thinner is typically used for your cleanup after applying it, and stain can exhibit some of the same properties as paint thinner..

A:  I doubt that this product will readily accept the color from stain, although I do not believe that stain will damage the product once it is set up properly.

A:  This product is paintable once it is fully cured (at least 7days or longer). Using a Stain is possible if it is a solid color water based stain. Oil base stains are not suitable or recommended unless sealant has be primed with a water based primer.

A:  Latex based stain yes, but the caulking is white so coverage and bleed through may be an issue

A:  I haven't tried it, but I rather doubt that it would. It can be painted, but I certainly wouldn't try anything water based -- this stuff is just about impervious to water. I don't think oil will penetrate it, either, once it has cured. Might be easier just to try to mix some coloring agent in it before you apply it.

A:  We do not have any information regarding the electro- conductivity of the Loctite PL S40 or any of our other sealants as they have not been tested for this purpose.

A:  It apparently sticks to most or all metals. I cannot speak for any electrical properties. The product is a very sticky material and I am guessing it would work.

A:  This is fine to use on the interior as well as the exterior, and it performs better when it is painted after it fully cures. However, please keep in mind that this is much more difficult caulk to apply than a silicon caulk. I recommend using latex gloves and an old sock to apply this product. If you get it on your hands, it is difficult to remove without paint thinner. It also sticks to almost any dry surface very easily. Therefore, it will need to be applied carefully.

A:  Loctite's sealant/solution brochure lists this as interior/exterior, but be aware that while it is low VOC, it definitely has an odor, and it carries warnings on the safety data sheet that it can aggravate asthma/allergies/breathing disorders. So, as long as you can ventilate the area where you'll be using it, I think it will be fine. It's definitely paintable, stays flexible, and it's tough as nails.

A:  PL S40 Polyurethane Window, Door and Siding Sealant is a premium quality commercial grade sealant developed especially for forming permanent, water and weather resistant seals in most exterior gaps and joints. OSI Quad Max Window, Door & Siding sealant offers maximum durability and application performance for use in many interior or exterior conditions and is available in white.

A:  Yes, the sealant is for exterior use only.

A:  I wouldn't use it inside because of the mess but you could. If your having problems with cracking then your not leaving enough product to go through the expansion-contraction process. I'm actually a custom cabinet builder and trim carpenter and only use latex caulking inside but during installation I allow enough room for minimum 1/8" of caulking so it won't crack. Without knowing what your tying to caulk this is the best info I can give you

A:  It will cure a little faster but remember this product has an expansion-contraction rate of about 25% so if the product is put on too thin it may fracture or fail prematurely. I try to keep end joints at about 1/4" to go through that process. I think the waterproofing membrane will adhere OK but try not to tool the caulking too thin

A:  Tack free time is estimated at 24 hours based on 75°F (24°C) and 50% Relative Humidity. The PL S40 Polyurethane sealant has an estimated full cure of 7 days @ 75°F (24°C) and 50% Relative Humidity. Cure time is dependent upon temperature, humidity, porosity of substrate and joint depth. Polyurethane sealants typically cure at a rate of 3mm per day. Theoretically it is possible the PL S40 sealant, based on 1/8' thickness or smaller, may be fully cured sooner under ideal conditions. Keep in mind that lower temperatures or lack of humidity or too high of humidity may cause the sealant to cure slower.

A:  The instructions provided for surface preparation are in accordance with industry best practices for obtaining best performance from a product. The PL S40 product is polyurethane reactive chemistry and it is not possible to know if any compatibility issues may exist with a particular paint or surface coating. It is recommended that purchasers/users should test the products to determine acceptable quality and suitability for the intended use. All adhesive/sealant applications should be tested under simulated or actual end use conditions to ensure the product meets or exceeds all required project specifications. Since assembly conditions may be critical to the products performance, it is also recommended that testing be performed on specimens assembled under simulated or actual production conditions.

A:  Seems like that might be a "best case scenario" situation. I used this on an old storm window that had been neglected and improperly glazed. I ended up putting this on top of a lot of stuff that I just didn't have time to scrape off -- old paint, old glaze, various residues of caulk and putty. It seemed to stick surprisingly well to just about everything. Of course, if what's under it peels away, you can't really say that this stuff "failed."