Customer Reviews for Everbilt Bright Brass Wall Door Stop

It was difficult to install properly on a stucco wall. Also, if the door hits it at any angle besides square on, the cover pops off. I had to use a couple of washers to space it off the wall and it works fine now

Very easy to install.

Roscoe, our English bulldog, decided that the spring doorstop was something good to chew on. In fact it was so good he pulled it out of the moulding. Next thing you know we've got a doorknob shaped dent in the sheetrock. Woodworking to the rescue! _Yayyy!_ I bought one of those round wall stops, but they're about the same diameter as the knob and won't easily mount to the dent (which is obviously _exactly_ where it needs to mount.) I had a nice chunk of oak 1x6 in the bin and I eyeballed about 8" or so. Next was square cutting one end and then marking the approximate center of the far end. Note that nothing is ruler measured, the center was found by holding a pencil steady and marking in from both sides. Splitting the difference by eye was accurate enough and the fixed stop made sure everything comes out perfect without using a rule. I set the miter gauge to 30° and adjusted the stop so the center mark of the wood was just past the edge of the ZCI. I cut the first miter, flipped the stock, and cut the second miter without changing the settings. This gave me a perfect hex point on one end. Had the miter gauge angle been off, the miters would still center, but the ends will be elongated or shortened proportionately. Using the piece as a guide I set the rip fence to the exact width of the stock - no ruler needed. Holding one of the miters to the rip fence I cut the opposite miter. Flipping the final miter against the rip fence gave me a perfect hexagon - all without a ruler. Using an ogee bit I routed a profile on all six sides. Depth was set by eye for about a 1/16" lip. The mounting holes needed to be clearance for #8 so I chucked a 3/16" bit in the drill press and drilled a pair of holes an inch or so in from the edges. Again the "steady pencil" method was used to mark both locations evenly. Same-same for centering the holes. Drawing lines point-to-opposite-point set the center location for the stop mount - again no ruler, just a straightedge. To mount the round stop I needed a #6 pilot hole. Unthinkingly I used the same 3/16" _clearance_ drill as the _pilot_ - *oops!* I have a ton of 1/4-20 hardware and after drilling both the round stop and the board with the #7 1/4-20 pilot I was able to tap both and mount with a 1/2" screw. The remaining two mounting holes were 3/8" x 1/4" countersunk with a Forstner bit. The countersink depth was set using a couple small pieces of 1/4" scrap to quickly approximate a 1/4" depth in 3/4" stock - again, no ruler. The oak was sanded to 240 grit and finished before assembly. The finish is two coats of Johnson's paste floor wax. Before mounting I took the project critical step of asking the better half if she wanted it installed tall way or side way! The required location was (naturally) not on a stud so plastic wall anchors were the order of the day. They're not my favorite mounting method but I had them on hand. The screws were threaded thru the stock until just the tips exposed. Setting the wood over the dent and a bump with a rubber mallet and the mounting hole locations were set without measuring. After mounting I covered the countersunk holes with oak caps. I love having little stuff like the oak caps in stock. When you enumerate all the steps and such even a seemingly trivial project can be satisfyingly complex.

Ah yes, door stops. They seem so simple, and yet sometimes they're so difficult. Mounting any type of door stop into drywall is always risky, because drywall is simply no match for a door that is thrown open too hard. So anyway, I bought two of them (for two different doors). One is mounted on the drywall. The other is mounted on the baseboard. For the one mounted on the drywall, I cut out the center of the rubber. I used a toggle-bolt to secure it to the wall, and I also used about two or three small washers behind the door stop in order to get the proper offset spacing so that I could twist on the decorative ring. The toggle-bolt is nice, since if this door stop gets a little loose, I can now easily re-tighten it without having to disassemble it. Works great so far, as long as nobody throws the door open too hard. For the one mounted on the baseboard, I also cut out the center of the rubber. Then I just used a big 2-inch all purpose screw and screwed it into the baseboard. I also used about two small washers (like before) to get the proper offset spacing. I should say that mounting this to the baseboard probably won't work for most folks since the door handle might still hit the wall. But due to the details in this particular situation, it worked out.

Used in an aftermarket application for a pocketing door to reduce bump

Easy to install and excellent fit.

This works better than a standard door stop. Looks better as well. I had to use a different screw than what was provided but only because of the size of the doorstop I removed.

It’s a door stop. It works.

Returned it, so I don’t know.

I don’t like how the rubber piece can pop over and out from the screw. My application is somewhat challenging in that it is attached to corrugated steel siding but a small washer would probably be useful to hold everything in place

This elegant brushed nickel door stop is now protecting my new door from hitting my brick work around my door. I simply love it !

Perfect for shower door stop

great door stop that helps protect wall without unbalancing the door