Questions and Answers for GE 4 ft. Universal Stainless Steel Washer Hoses with 90 degree Elbow (2-Pack)

A:  They look nicer, and were the original answer to the old bulging hoses where the rubber-usually on the hot watter hose- would bulge out and explode. Usually while you wer egone for a few days, and flood everything.

A:  Added security to insure that they won't burst...

A:  Because of the potentially catastrophic consequences of a burst rubber hose inside your house while you are away. Remember, the pressure is always on unless you turn off the spigot at the wall -- a good idea, but who bothers? For a few extra bucks, it is a false economy to go cheaper.

A:  GE suggests replacing hoses every five years. They also suggest turning off the water at the valves when you are not using your washer. I'm sure this is their way of not wanting to be responsible if a hose fails and your home get's flooded. Today, a lot of hoses are cheaply made (in China) and my idea would be to purchase the best hoses possible and then leave them in place for the life of the washer or maybe change them if you move the washer to a new home. I know of no one who turns off the water to their washer. It is your choice and your home. If your installation is such that a hose leaking would not be a problem, you might be fine with cheap rubber hoses.

A:  I asked myself the same question but reverted back to the strength of the hoses verses rubber. My city has high water pressure so I want to ensure there is never a 'let-go' or a 'blow-out' when I am not home.

A:  I wouldn't see why not.

A:  yes, no problem

A:  you can use stainless for potable water

A:  Yes

A:  Yes they are USDA approved, & we found them quiet useful in our summer camp water system. .

A:  Your question is too vague to give an accurate answer. Most drain outlets involve using some sort of pipe with a flange built onto one end. In most sink installations the piece is called a tailpipe. Generically it is a "tank union". After the flanged pipe or fitting is passed through the drain hole and seated on proper gasket material a nut is threaded on the fitting to compress the gasket to complete the seal.

A:  These hoses are not used for drainage, however if you are asking about the washer drain it goes in the hole in the same location as the hoses are located. If you have a problem with the drain hose popping out when the washer empties, there is a metal hanger that can be purchased separately that holds the drain hose in place, just ask your Home Depot associate for help if you have trouble locating it.

A:  These are water supply hoses. your drain hose should have come with the washer

A:  Drain hose should be secured with at least one wire tie, to insure that it will not come out on it's own.

A:  The washing machine drain? Use a standard washer drain hose with a U bend to fit into the wall drain (usually between the hot and cold faucets.). H.D. carries them.

A:  Depends on the application.

A:  You can use which ever end works the best for your set up. For my current set up I used the straight end on the water outlets (which were angled down) and the curved end on the washer. At my old home I used the curved end on the outlet and the straight end at the washer.

A:  We installed the elbow end on our washing machine since we don't have much space behind the machines in our laundry closet and the elbow stops the hoses from accidentially kinking when the washer and dryer are pushed into place

A:  Generally, to the washer because that is where the space constriction comes into play.

A:  install on washer to get washer closer to the wall to conserve space.

A:  It totally depends on the application. I attached the 90 degree ends to my supply lines.

A:  Elbow end on the machine.

A:  the washer....made for tight spaces.

A:  As suggested by most people, it depends on which direction your faucet outlets and washer inlets are facing. My old washer inlets were aimed downwards (primarily), so I attached the straight connection. The inlets on my new washer are aimed straight towards the wall, so I installed the angled ends to allow the hose to loop downward without kinking. Some hookups or tight spaces may require the purchase of an additional elbow adapter.

A:  Most installations I've seen, the elbow ends have to connect to the washer.

A:  The title in the item description is wrong - they are 4' long, not 5' long

A:  The title is correct.

A:  4 feet

A:  That is totally a manufacturer question, l but it is a good one.

A:  The ones I bought was 4' They are good quality. !!

A:  Not made for that type of service.

A:  yes and yes, these are the best hoses you can buy without having them custom made

A:  No and no. Use copper tubing or solid flex pipe instead as per code.

A:  No and definitely no. Use appropriate copper piping as per local code. Never use heat tape on a flex hose. The rubber inside could deteriorate and break.

A:  Yes they can be used on tank less water heaters. It is not recommended to use tape on these braided metal lines.

A:  Brass, I think.

A:  I believe they are copper. Could be brass. Either way, it shouldn't matter.

A:  Stainless steal on most brands of hoses.

A:  Solid brass. This is a good thing, and indicative of higher quality.

A:  Brass

A:  This product is all stainless steel.

A:  Stainless steel

A:  Brass, I think. They should work for your application.

A:  Stainless steel

A:  Brass connectors.

A:  None. Generally, the bend is installed next to the washer because that is where space constraints typically favor a 90 degree bend. If your set-up is the opposite of most (as you indicate), you should place the 90 degree bend where it makes most sense. The water pressure will be identical either way.

A:  None

A:  good design with 90 degree angle fitting.

A:  none

A:  The 90 degree application worked well for me.

A:  No, side angle lines prevent lines from kinking when you push your washer back into position. They are a great buy. I recommend braided lines.

A:  None. It depends on the application.

A:  No, the volume of water flow is the same either way

A:  No issues with doing that as long as you have room to go straight into your washer's connections.

A:  No, it depends on the particular application.

A:  Not that I know of. I've used them for years and never seen any galvanic corrosion occur.

A:  Wrap Teflon tape or apply silicone plumbers grease at threaded connection to reduce contact between dissimilar metals. It helps to reduce corrosion.

A:  No, inside of hose is rubber.

A:  There are no known corrosion problems where brass elbow meets the stainless steel hose.

A:  None that I know of, but it is an excellent question. Typically, if I understand the drift of your question, corrosion problems occur between aluminum and brass, or aluminum and steel -- think garden hose hook-ups or spark plugs in an alluminum engine block.

A:  It tell you on the package the max working PSI

A:  This is the amount of PSI (pounds per square inch) of pressure of a substance it takes to burst a hose or container.

A:  Hi - as per the installation info (for LG washer) it states that the water pressure should be between 20-120 psi (if the water pressure is high, you'll get a "water hammer" noise.) But I think most homes run approx 100psi

A:  Rated more than residential pressure should be.

A:  The stainless braiding prevents these hoses from swelling and bursting like standard rubber hoses. The average incoming home water pressure is approximately 65-75 psi and these hoses are rated at 1500 psi.

A:  Probably rated higher than your residential pressure would ever be.

A:  Up over 250

A:  Stainless steel mesh hoses usually can withstand up to 1500 psi, Ordinary house pressure rarely exceeds 100 psi.