Questions and Answers for Orbit 3-Valve Inline Manifold Assembly

A:  Although you can turn on each of the valves manually, it is very labor intensive and the box in which the valves are placed is generally in a box underground. The manual option is generally utilized as a means of checking the operation of the distribution heads of the watering system.

A:  It’s made to use with a controller. But, you can manually twist the black valves and turn on the water. Just be gentle as I don’t think they’re meant to be used that way for an extended time.

A:  If you have a volt meter, you can easily diagnose this issue. The first question is whether each of the solenoids is receiving the signal from the timer. If so, is the solenoid activating the valve? You can swap one of the solenoids that is supplying water with one that is not. If that causes the previously non-functioning valve to work, the problem is with the solenoid. If not, see if that valve is getting water from the feed. If it is not, diagnose why not.

A:  The solenoid valve makes the clicking sound when the internal valve slug is pulled back when the solenoid is powered ON (opens). This slug opens a bleeder port inside of the valve body which in turn open a small port which then allows water to bypass the main valve diaphragm. this lets the valve open and thusly the water will flow. It is usually dirt particles that clog the hole or the screen is really clogged up. On the other hand if the valve will not shut OFF then again it is dirt particles but in this case they are keeping the bleed hole open, causing slug to not close and shut off the bypass water.

A:  It’s fairly low amperage so anything 18-22 gauge or better. If you are going extended distance outdoors you need to use cable designed for that.

A:  There needs to be one wire per valve for each zone PLUS a common wire (usually the WHITE wire for the COMMON. Therefore, there needs to be at least seven (7) wires. One wire from each valve solenoid is to be connected to the COMMON wire.

A:  I recently replaced the sprinkler valve control wiring to my 5 zone system They make wire just for this. It is 18 gauge...water proof and comes in different amount of conductors. I bought the 7 conductor version. One wire for each of my 5 valves...one wire for the 'common' lead and I have a spared off wire. Should I ever have an open wire or need to add another zone. When I installed it I coiled about 1 foot of the wire if needed in the future. My old wiring not installed by me was cut pretty short and pretty much a mess. I redid all of my valves as my area had reclaimed water installed and I wanted to take advantage of the much cheaper way to keep my lawn nice and green!

A:  I have had one at ground level for a couple years. Important to drain before winter. Works well.

A:  The valve will work at any level. However, it should be placed in a protective box of some type to prevent accidental damage. It will also need to be insulated to prevent the valve from freezing if there is cold weather.

A:  I put my two sets of three valves in separate box/cover setups. I have my valves below lawn level with the Green cover at lawn level. I can then mow over it.

A:  It is usually below ground but can function at ground level or above ground level if properly connected and temperature is above freezing.

A:  The cleanest installation would be in conjunction with the Orbit base unit (Model #53230) and box (NDS Model #115). This is the shallowest box sold by Home Depot with a 6-1/2" deep measurement. The deeper boxes just make the valve assembly deeper in the ground and less accessible. Because you want the top cover of the box to be even with the ground, you'll need to dig down at least 12", fill in enough gravel and place the base on top of the gravel so the top of the base is 6-1/2" below ground level. The valve/manifold assembly sits on top of the base, so it would be 5-6 inches below ground level. I remember seeing a guideline that the valves should be at a height no lower than the highest sprinkler head, but I can't confirm that, and from everything I've read, it appears that's not necessary. Best to consult an Orbit specialist for that question.

A:  All the above. I installed it above ground .

A:  Since the manufacturer doesn't know how you are going to install this setup they don't come with an associated Black base or the Green removable top. You can buy different valve arrangements to meet your needs: 1 valve, two valves, etc., and you can hook multiple valves together by removing the end cap. I installed two sets of THREE valve setups each in their own box/cover setup, since I have SIX zones. It is best to install them in a box/cover due to fact that if you ever need to replace a solenoid you access it really easy. I would NOT BURY them.

A:  I think the box or enclosure is a generic thing, as in, you can use anything you want. You probably should not just bury them, they should be put in a box or enclosure so you can service them when something goes wrong.

A:  My guess would be that pretty much all sprinkler systems where the valves are located can be very different in how the valves are set up. My old system was a terrible mess. It had 5 zones. When I did replace all the valves I measured the approximate size of box I would need. My store had a variety of sizes of sprinkler valve boxes to chose from and I selected one large enough to handle my 5 valves.

A:  Well I have had 5 of these valves hooked up on my sprinkler system for over one year now and have not had any trouble/problems with leaks. I followed the instructions on securing the valves but was careful not to over tighten them. The HUGE selling point for me on these valves is they are NOT glued so that if you do have to replace one...you just unscrew and replace that one!

A:  I’ve had one for at least 10 years. Sold that house and installed the same one at my new house. No issues at all with either manifold. I used some assembly lube on the o rings during install. No leaks, valves operate dependably. I like that I can unscrew it if I need to.

A:  I used the purple primer and glued the ends onto existing pipes. the screw together fittings work well and don't leak. You can remove, rework, repair or replace defective electric valve mechanisms. My old system was all glued together and was teffible to work on.

A:  i USED black pipe and clamps tested all before butting under ground. to make shore it had no leeks the seals ate all o rings and you can use plumbers greasy on the o rings all fittings that are screwed together are only to be hand tight. parts can be purchased from home depot. the idea being if you have a failure you can replace the valves without digging up the whole thing. I have had my system for 40 years and dug up and replaced a lot of valves over the years. now if I ever have to do it again I can just unscrew my old valve and take the fittings of and replace the old valve with any being produced at the time. It also can save my wife a fortune in repairs should I pass.

A:  This worked great. I am a non-handy homeowner and it went in easily. No leaks for the year!

A:  Hook up an air compressor and open each line one by one. I use my compressor for air tools but its slow and takes a lot of time.

A:  My system is self draining. I turn off water supply, open valves and system has drains at the ends and intermitten low areas.

A:  I installed a SHUT OFF valve on the existing 1-1/2" irrigation line, followed by a 1-1/2" x 1/1-2" by 1/2" "T" fitting, and then a 1-1/2" x 1" REDUCER to attach the manifold to the system. An 8" piece of 1/2" piping was then attached to the "T" fitting. A CAP was then placed on the other end of the 1/" pipe, so that it could be easily removed such that I can then remove the cap and attach a compressor to blow out the lines one at a time either manually at the manifold or by using the Orbit timer in MANUAL.

A:  Could not find a photo of one but when they sell sprinkler valves with no head included they frequently come with a white plastic screw on head that is wide open at the top...you use it to pull up the sprinkler head and attach the desired sprinkler head to it. I have saved them and when I have needed to flush out a zone...I just place these on all of the sprinkler valves and turn on that zone. it allows water to freely flow out of them all and any debris or dirt that may be in the line is washed out...I run them that way for a few minutes...and then replace the sprinkler valve heads back. This has always worked for me.

A:  Yes but its not really a switch. You simply unscrew the solenoid a little and the valve opens.

A:  Yes very easy to do. The valve has a clearly marked knob on top to manually turn the valve on and off. Here is a photo of my valve box.

A:  to manually OPERATR THE VALVES TWIST THE SOLONOIND 1/2 TURN OR A LITTLE MORE AND IT WILL OPERATE.

A:  If you want the zone to NOT actuate then RESET the Controller to skip that zone. If the want to actuate the zone when it is NOT set to run/operate then you can select the zone at the Controller and set the new run time and then push the ENTER button. If you just want to MANUALLY operate the valve then you can simply twist the solenoid part of the valve counter-clockwise (CCW) about a half turn or so and the valve will OPEN and the zone will begin watering, BUT you will have to manually CLOSE the valve by rotating the solenoid clockwise (CW).

A:  I have installed siphon valves at each sprinkler head. Drains lines when water pressure drops.

A:  You always want the anti-siphon placed higher than the highest sprinkler head as it protects your potable water system and in Idaho has to be checked annually for proper operation ..A shut of valve and drain valve should be placed underground to keep it from freezing you can us a six or eight inch plastic pipe to access them. I would suggest using ball valves as they last longer.

A:  there is an o ring at every joint you can get some faucet lube when you put them together but it may be the fitting are to loose or to tight should only tighten them hand tight other wise you can crack a fitting. have replaced my whole system and before i covered them i tested them under pressure had one loose fitting. after i loosened it up and retightened i had no more problems . I really love them I am an older man and wanted to make my system easier to repair should i pas can now change a valve in 15 minutes.