A good floor, soft, warm, durable, hides dirt. Installation is definitely a little harder than a typical floating floor, but once I figured the tricks, it was quite easy. I put in 1000 sq ft and thought I'd share the procedure I used that's not in the instructions (which, BTW are on the bottom of the box)
First you have to have a small tapping block made from the material. It has to be made from the material so you can snap it in before tapping on it, as anything else would damage the click mechanism of the boards. The tapping block will slowly break apart, but since its locked to the good floor, there is no damage and you can tap pretty hard. If you have to, just cut 6" off the first board you lay, then cut that piece about 3" back from the short click edge perpendicular to the long end so you get a 3" x 6" block with 2 short edges (by short edge I mean the click mechanism looks shorter when viewed from the top. I don't mean the short (12") edge of the board. See photo 1.
The first row is easy. The rest is harder because you have to lock in on two sides. The first 3 or 4 rows are tricky because the floor moves around, so use spacer blocks. For all rows but the first, take the board you are adding and hold it at an angle to the already laid piece to the right. The new board should be just shy of touching the next row so that you can snap it down without scraping. But it can't be much farther back because there is a lot of friction in the joints and you won't be able to push it in. About 1/8" max. (see photo 2) Now lay it down so it snaps in place. If it doesn't snap you might be able to push it in, or just pull the board back up and try again.
Once its down (photo 3), lift it and the previous piece about 1 to 1.5" using your right fingers with the butt of your hand against the new piece. Make sure the long edge is in the joint. Push down a little with your left hand on the back right corner of the new piece where it is about to go into the previous row. Then, using the butt of your right hand, push hard, sliding the new piece into the long joint. (photo 4) It should snap in place. Don't worry if the long joint isn't tight yet. If it doesn't move at all, you might not be pushing hard enough (it takes a fair bit), or the long joint might not be lined up all the way, so adjust and retry.
Often the left side of the long joint won't go in as much. Use the tapping block to tap in that side, then place the tapping block across the joint between the new piece and the previous piece and tap there too to full seat the piece (see photo 5). You can tell that the piece is seated because it lies flat.
I always tapped the seam of the new piece and previous piece to make sure everything stayed tight. Sometimes you have to go back a piece or two and tap the seems tight again as lifting up can pull it slightly apart.
Rinse and repeat...
Once you get it, the floor goes down quite quickly. Because the edges are fragile, I examined each piece to ensure that there was no damage to the edges. Surprisingly few of the boards were damaged over 46 boxes. I simply put them to the side before cutting, put them back in a box and returned them to Home Depot. This was the big advantage of buying from HD vs other vendors.
The really hard part though is the last row and around obstacles. The concepts are the same, its just a bit harder. I also used a small (6") pry bar for some of the tight spots where I couldn't use a tapping block. I used a scrap piece to protect the actual floor, and pried against the wall.
I hope this helps!
High Quality of Material, Looks Great, Modern, Comfortable, Looks High End